I was just saying, I hate cleaning up used parts. If someone else wants to clean them up, and they did a good job, I'm happy to consider purchasing them. I'd just prefer new when I can find it.
I won't even get into the reasoning as to why sludging occurs since I'll end up exceeding the character limit to do it. I will say this though. This is cast iron.. not aluminum. If anyone thinks that many of the core motors or rebuilt long blocks they are buying looked much different than this motor when they were sitting in junkyards and brought in on pallets?.. they're being very naïve. In general.. people take decent care of newer cars up until such time that they start funneling too much cash out of their bank accounts. From there.. it's all downhill and things don't get done on a schedule very often. IMO, so long as a motor has been fully mag'd and passes inspection?.. I'll take one that's been subjected to heavy thermal cycling.. over one that's been "babied every day of its life".. any day of the week. It's called "seasoning" and gives more precise final machining.. that stays put longer.. over an engine that's been babied and never overheated or frozen in -50 degree weather. Hell.. many shops still dip, bake, broil, and rotisserie blocks too.. and that's a MUCH hotter environment overall(+750 F) than an engine block will ever see during an overheat situation. Sure there are hotter "spots" created during an engine failure.. but overall they are never discarded because of that fact alone. If you're machining everything again anyways?.. and you should because the factory tolerance allowance sucks spaghetti sauce.. what does it matter?
Sludge doesn't matter if you rebuild it use the block- cam retainer buy new performance heads aggressive cam you have a ho motor if you use Valvoline the life of the motor it will not look like that Valvoline forever
So true regarding "seasoned" blocks. I have seen people pay bucks to shot peen new rods to relieve internal stress in the castings.
no Quaker sludge for me but oil is oil as long as it is has the API stamp its basically all the same super tech - Havoline- gulf pride multi g- change it regular oil is the life of the motor except Quaker sludge
it all depends on the budget you can spend as much or as little as you want new or used if its machined and put together correctly it will last a long time unless you use Quaker sludge
I used QUAKER STATE for years -- never had any issues with it. I don't think they cud have survived all these years making a substandard product. They hve won a lot of NASCAR races over the past 20 yrs. I think that is no small feat by most standards.
oil is oil is oil and I will say it again QUAKER SLUDGE QUAKER SLUDGE QUAKER SLUDGE if it says api then its good oil even QUAKER SLUDGE
My 302 (306 now) 5.0 motor has XXX in the valleys, and runs off the HO fire order.. Just read in a previous post that XXX motors are Roller ready? Good to know...
I dunno the date, but std lifter only blocks were discontinued sometime in the '80s, would make no sense to cast two different blocks when the roller block can be used with either type lifter... In addition to the XXX block there are YYY versions that are also roller... I've seen a '85 truck block that was cast for roller lifters(hold downs for spider were not machined) but had a flat tappet cam installed... That one came from a friend's truck that he bought new, we know it's orig... Firing order is totally cam controlled, the Lo-Po '86-'91 5.0 used in T-Birds('86-'88), Grand Marquis, etc had roller cams and used the std 15426378 firing order, I've owned three of those engines... Block, crank and rods are exactly same as ones used for HO engines... Pistons are flat top because of the E6 swirl heads used on those versions...
Lmao I just got online for a few and was catching up and I got to laughing a good one at the "thread drift". What started out on one basis has what could be 3,4 hell maybe even 5 diff thread topics in this one thread....it's all good cuz I'm ADHD so it makes perfect sense to me