And I cannot find a replacement part. After trying to find someone who can go through this and be affordable, I may have to attempt to just repair this myself. Here is my first issue. That inner shaft is just flopping around against that outer tube. There must be some bushing that goes in there. This was the closest I found: https://www.autokrafters.com/produc...on-67-73-mustang-68-76-torino-more-f23z-3517b But the outer diameter is too small. It's more likely to be 1-5/8. Where can I find a diagram for the column? It also needs a new signal switch, a lock cylinder, and the locking mechanism doesn't function very well.
On the OEM shaft, there is no bushing/bearing on the lower part, only the upper shaft has a bearing (which is still available), the lower shaft is secure/supported when it is bolt to the rag joint/steering box. The shifter column/tube does have a "nylon bushing" between the outer tube and middle shifter column/tube, you can see part of it just above the outer tube mounting bracket, see the locating "pins" through oval slots, that bushing is harder to find, but pops up on eBay once in a while, very seldom does it wear, may become brittle and break though......... Several members, including myself have installed a lower bearing kit and/or "U-Joint" to replace the rag joint........ Here is link to my installation of lower bearing, it starts 6 or 7 posts from top of page........ http://mmb.maverick.to/threads/what-did-you-do-to-your-maverick-or-comet-today.75605/page-832 David
thanks. it seems very odd that there would be an open cavity like that for everything to make it's way inside.
There actually is a rubber seal between the inner shaft/middle tube and a "foam" ring between the outer/middle tubes, but after 50 years, it is usually rotted and gone, mine was still intact....... David
Are you referring to the rubber seal/foam rings? I doubt that they are still available, from your pictures, it looks like you are missing the rubber seal. I will post couple of pictures a little later, showing the rubber seal, it does offer some sort of support, but it is more to keep out dirt/debris.......... David
Here are pictures of rubber seal that goes between the inner shaft/middle tube and foam seal between outer/middle tubes........ David
perfect thanks! ok the foam I can easily source. something better than factory. but the bushing...I'll have to separate those shafts and the only thing I see are plastic pins seen in pic 2. is this something simple?
Yes, you will have to separate/disassemble the column, definitely something you can do and since it is already out of the car, much easier! You will obviously have to remove the steering wheel, then carefully remove the turn signal assembly, taking pictures is your best friend too! Once those are removed you can see the inner shaft bearing and "c-clip" that secures the upper bearing, which is what you listed from Auto-Krafters. If I can remember, once you remove the c-clip, install/thread down the steering wheel nut, so flush with end of shaft and carefully tap down the shaft and it should separate from the bearing, spray some sort of penetrating fluid between the inner bearing collar/shaft, let it sit, may help removal. Once shaft is free from the bearing, remove the nut and the inner shaft should slide out from the bottom. I think I have covered the removal, if I missed something, perhaps another member may chime in, it has been 7 months or so, when I did this.........good luck! David DO NOT force anything!!! The most difficult part for me was lining up those 2 bolt/clamps securing the upper halves of the outer collars! (ones that retain the turn signal assemble/parking indicator/column shifter lever). If you are just removing the inner shaft, then you do not have to worry about this! One other thing try and measure the total length of the inner shaft, from top of where steering wheel nut is to bottom of shaft where rag joint mounts, before you do anything! Sometimes the shaft will "collapse" slightly and you have to readjust back to original length. The solid upper half is design to "collapse" into the lower half 3/4" DD tube in an accident........ Use some fine/med emery to clean up any "burrs" that maybe around groove where the upper c-clip is, clean up and I used anti-seize on the bearing surface of the shaft and ID of bearing. When reinstalling, to get upper bearing back onto shaft, use a 3/8 or 1/2" rod (threaded ready rod) long enough so when you pass it through the center hole where the rag joint mount is, it bottoms up against the upper solid shaft and sticks out far enough pass the bottom of the rag joint mount, then you can use hammer to carefully seat the bearing till it bottoms against the lower c-clip (as the shaft passes through the bearing, you will see the groove appear for the upper c-clip), this should help eliminate the possibility of "collapsing" the shaft. If you just hammer the bottom of the shaft, it will "collapse" the shaft and overall length will be shortened, tell me how I know......... There is a rubber ring that wraps around the upper inner shaft bearing too, most of the time both bearing/rubber sleeve can be reused, just clean really good and repack with good quality grease....... Take lots of pictures and/or notes!!!
thanks a lot dyent. I will probably be posting here soon with questions as soon as I am able to full on tackle this. also isn't there a spring right there in the center? I'm missing a spring
Not a problem, when you are ready to tackle this, you can PM me if you run into an issue. It is really quite simple to do, if all you are doing is just installing that lower rubber dust seal and/or new turn signal assembly. Yes, there is a spring that goes onto the shaft, under the steering wheel, I will check to see if I have spare one, along with rubber seal........ David Oh, I see you are also having issues with your lock etc.........here is complete steering column on eBay, I have seen others for around $100 too, just another option. https://www.ebay.com/itm/275536399458 one for $75! https://www.ebay.com/itm/134532509031
floor shift. that looks like a decent maverick they're parting out. they should try and sell that whole
so I want to start on this now but I also want to make sure I have everything. I do not have the spring but I can easily substitute that I'm sure with some dimensions. I also don't have the seal and autokrafters was unable to help. this doesn't look like that but their chart is saying it'll fit https://www.ebay.com/itm/363541576327?hash=item54a4c43a87:g:qOoAAOSwZm5hPwOA&amdata=enc:AQAIAAAA4MezmNQ3lWOhHHH3iT8zNPf7KrIjDVFd5Pu2z4vBKdXI/g29KXhAHpb5OwSUnX0k8C6Zf7zK/xxwP+LPZuDlcGlvPO/xIEu596U+vz528JMmUqWZJiynFah8PGEPHbBDCYgmmByPwrm5oC9yzi2yPw7EFgyb/wFF7ROmoAsLphgYUPtcBnTNMnGLP6CKh6Qf5xKuyLUKCnjJADB6Gb2AeUiUPse0YQVIqO6ExMF+G/+lH6F5aKP0/Hx69lvc+Lcg4Dcb9W+pxy1O7lqSeBwPPrR+m5KDbk6QT4U5z9j+eQiJ|tkp:Bk9SR8SU-_b1YQ EDIT: nevermind about the spring. I realize now what I need is an entire new steering wheel adapter set, which includes a spring. I need to talk to Grant to figure out which one I need. so i need that, shaft seal, dust seal, turn signal switch, and ignition lock cylinder. I have a shaft seal that will be on its way to my local Grainger that fits the description of what I have. Not sure if it'll actually work. I posted a thread here almost 9 years ago about a new ignition lock cylinder that just would not work. I'm skeptical to try again.
