I did the same thing Bob Wiken did, but I cut 3 1/2" instead of 2 1/2"" from the brace. I should had cut only 3 1/4" because the inner shell is touching the hood latch support enough to allow the bumper to rock back and forth and not fit flat . I added thick flat washers between the shell and the plate to correct my boo boo. Here is a before and after shot showing the difference.
I was quite surprised at how easy that project was. I am no fabricator but if you can measure accurately, that's all it takes. And a $100 welder from Harbor freight
I like the tuck as well. I was going to put small bumpers on my 74, but I like the big bumpers tucked a lot better...
I like that I want to do that to my Comet. Can you write a discription on the process. Did you do it on the rear??
Bob Wiken did a great 'How to' at http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=48364 I guess I could add that you will need to cut 1 3/4" off the front of the rubber filler that goes between the bumper and grille. The bottom of the filler has a ridged lip you can go by...just cut the lip off. I mounted the inner bumper first to know where to cut the rubber with a jig saw then bolted on the outer chrome shell. I have a '71 rear bumper and valance panel on my Mav now
Just for folks without a welder... You are supposed to be able to compress the impact absorbers in a press or large vice. When they compress in, they stay in. So you get the same effect. There have even been guys that say they pulled up to a stout concrete wall and when the bumper touched, they 'drove' the bumpers to the tucked positions. I am not recommending this method, just telling what others have posted.
I haven't seen any members post that their compressed absorbers ever moved back out... No matter how they compressed them in. Once compressed, they stay compressed.
