Now i am more confused. Do I need a special line, or just any -6 AN? I was expecting the general consensus to say "get an X brand line rated for XX psi, that won't decompose with contact with transmission fluid." I am not getting that. So, just buy a bunch of -6AN fuel line?
Man, I wouldn't want to be in line behind you at McDonald's, it would take forever Look here, it should answer your questions: http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/hose/main.shtml
You oughta be behind me AND my wife at Sonic.... I just KNOW they spit or hawk a loogie in our drinks...
Found some 2500psi hose there. At least I have a place to start looking. Need to inquire as to weather it will withstand that nasty Type F or not.
What's all the confusion anyway? Is it that you are really wanting to go with a manual trans? Just tell Anna that they don't make trans lines for it anymore
The stock trans lines go too close to the headers, and if I route some braided line I can put them wherever I want. I just want to buy the correct line first time. Otherwise, I will just recycle what I am currently using.
Scoop, I recall you asking this quesion several years ago. In fact, Shadowmaster gave a detailed list of fittings etc for the braided. I remember because I COPIED his shopping list he gave to you and did it! I have had no issues running braided for a long time. And like you, I like routing them where I wanted them to be. I would look for the original response but work calls!
I have a BIG problem with rubber lines - whether they are braided or not. The rubber lines hold in the heat. If you are using a 30000 pound rated cooler it is not a big deal but if you are using the radiator cooler or a cooler with less than 20000 pound rating then you are not effectively cooling your C4. The best temp for a C4 is 120F to 170F. your coolant runs 180 - 200F that will just about cut the life of a C4 to 30 % of what it could be. Metal lines act as a cooler. A 5/16" line has a hole that is 1/4" diameter the passage in the transmission is less than 3/16" - bigger lines do NOTHING for flow or cooling. If you need to bend the cooler lines around headers and such then use COPPER 5/16" lines and route them to the body metal as far from the headers as you can. Copper will actually increase the cooling - like running an extra cooler. To you guys running rubber lines with no problems... Good for you! You are probably running an isolated large cooler - if not, it will catch up to you.
Interesting. Wouldn't a factory type radiator cooler by itself cause the trans to run whatever the radiator temp is, usually 180-190? Is that higher than it should be? I do have an isolated large cooler, but now I'm wondering if I should have a bigger one. I only get as high as 160-180 if I'm driving for prolonged periods, but I've reached 200 if it's extremely hot outside and I drive for a couple of hours.
ok the factory trans cooler is in the side of the radiator that is the cool side. if your engine temp wich is usually taken near the t-stat wich will be the hotest point in the system is 180 the coolant that is beeing used to cool the trans is not 180. i dont know the actual temp but i would guess that its more like 140. also a fluid to fluid cooler is way more efficent than an air to fluid cooler. my theory and its only my theory is that its best to have both. i personaly have the teflon steel braid hoses that is commenly found used for brakes. i found -6 ones that were used for aircraft. i dont have a cooler in my radiator but i am running the bigest b&m super cooler that i could find. my temp gage never has gone above 180. ive driven and raced it in 90 to 100 degree heat.
I am running the largest external cooler I can find. It is aluminum, around 10X10, and I run it infront of my radiator, so it gets the cool air. I also don't let it touch the radiator fins, so it doesn't draw any heat from the warm radiator. Those copper lines might be something to look into, a bit easier to manipulate.
