Yes Scott that would be the combination valve (proportioning valve) and i'm not sure about the one you have but the Mopar style Willwood masters are internally proportioned so you eliminate the valve all together.The Mopar style is what you see in most drag cars,looks a little different than yours.
Well, that explains why my car stops on a dime, and doesn't try to fishtail or come around on me. That doohicky IS a proportioning valve. As for the pedal, I can pull it another 6-8 inches toward me from rest, so I DO need to make some sort of stop. I just need some suggestions on how to do it (hint, hint). I figure I can put a stop within a half inch or so of rest and be safe. That plunger rod goes into the m/c at least 2", maybe more.
my ...disc...disc...system doesn't have a...proportioning valve or diverter block...in the M/C or otherwise...the lines come straight from the M/C to the calipers. i am of the thinking that being my rear tires and rims are larger than the front, they act as a ..."proportioning valve"...Strange M/C...1" bore. ...:Handshake...
The pedal support already has two holes on the left side of the channel. Bolt a peice of angle iron there and let the end of the angle iron come about 3/8" from the brake pedal.
There's a reason the factory puts all of those twists and spirals into their brake lines. To survive vibrations, temperature changes and accidents. For a pedal stop on mine I just have a piece of angle hose-clamped to the steering column.
Scott, How's the pedal effort? My car was originally non-power 9" drum/drum and I converted to disc/drum using a Granada M/C and prop valve. The discs are 11" and the drums are the SVO 11" drum kit. I'm not sure on the M/C bore, but the pedal is stock (6:1?). My pedal is high and hard, but it takes a lot of effort to get stopped. I'm not sure I could "lock 'er up" if I had to... Russ
it will lock em up if I stomp it. I did it on the test drive. Pedal effort is not bad at all and it starts engaging pretty quickly. I think it starts to skid only because the car is so light. It doesn't appear to be a case of one wheel or pair of wheels locking up sooner than the others. And it only skidded for a brief second before landing at a complete stop staring straight on down the road, in the direction I was originally driving in. Didn't pull to one side or the other.
Dunno. It's a new Granada M/C and used Granada prop valve, I didn't measure the bore but I did have to swap my old pushrod over to it, as the one that came with the new M/C was too long. The pedal height is good, by "high and hard" I meant that the pedal doesn't go to the floor when braking. I'm thinking it has more to do with "upsizing" from 9" drums to 11" discs/drums. If it continues to bother me, I may end up with a hydroboost as no vacuum booster will fit... Russ
Drum/disc size has nothing to do with the fluid capacity of the wheel cylinders or calipers. You can use http://www.rockauto.com/ and look up what year Granada that you used to find cylinder bore. Bigger the bore the harder the pedal...smaller the bore closer to the floor.
