Took the heater/ac box out of the trunk "where it's been stored this winter" and hoping to get it started going back in tommorrow. Weather was nice today abt lower 50's and mostly sunny. Going to try and make it a one man job. If that don't work out, I will wait til I can get some help. Anyway, want to get started on it.
Everett, I got my 2 1/2 inch duct hose from "Nostagic Air" at a really nice price in case you're still looking for some.
OK Bob. I think I have enough. It looks like I may have to pull the speed-o cluster to get old drv side hose out; it's fasten to a metal bracket. If I were using my old vents I wud just probably leave it. If I need some more I will contact you. Thanks
I found it easier to get under the car an pull the drain down slightly after sliding the clamp down off of the case. It stayed stuck in the rubber grommet and when I reinstalled the box, I just slid it back up on the nipple. I would also put foam on the edges of the metal doors where they make contact. (they will rattle)
Ok on the getting under car. Hopefully I won't have to this time of the year in my damp and cool enviorment. However, If I have to I will. Im wondering how far the drain hose has to go below the floor? The C4 has abt inch below the floor B4 the drain hose will make contact w/ it. I won't reuse a grommet at the hole where the drain hose exits; I will use peel & stick insulation. Trying to figure out whether to use a screw clamp or spring clamp on the drain hose. I used a foam insul. kit for a Mustang to insul metal doors from making contact with box. It had a lot of foam I was able to use w/o a lot of modifications. Thanks for ur suggestions.
Finally got the entire system up and running yesterday. I had been sitting on the stuff Nov. 2010 but had to do a rehab of the heater box. It was to cold to mess w/ it in the winter so while I was sitting on it, I recovered my seats. Everything went relatively well. I have'nt had a chance to run the AC but once and it seems to be doing fairly well, considering I had a rr window open and drivers side dr panel off. Also, car was just idling. I put some insulation on the door panel and made up some foam pcs to cover the openings where the door gasket seems to pull away in the upper rear corner after aging and drying out. It's just a temp fix till I can get arnd to doing the weatherstrip thing. Im sure it won't hurt performance. My setup came frm Classic Auto Air, all new cept evap. I got much help/info frm "JSArnold-Jim" who has vry sim setup, and a few others whom I wish to thank. Anyway, I'll be needing it nx week, suppose to be in mid 90's. It will earn it's keep and cost heading to the Roundup.
Good job, Everett. My wife and I plan to be in Dearborn on Saturday only but we won't have the Sprint. Look forward to seeing you there. Jim
it doesnt look like you had the same problem i had so i guess ill ask if anyone has any tips for me... while taking the top and bottom of the box apart the small metal clips broke the tabs on the box they fasten to... does anyone have any tips for repairing these breaks... ill try to get pics asap... i was thinking fiberglass resin might work but i didnt know if it would bond well with the existing material
I used some glass mat on the inside of my unit where the AC water exits at the bottom. I had the spigot break in that area. The glass seemed to bond OK. My only concern is how long it will hold-up in a wet area "time will tell. I think it won't be a problem on the outside. Scuff an clean it well w/ something like den/alcohol and I believe u'll be OK. I don't have any suggestion on the tabs; I did'nt have any issues w/ them or the clips. U may want to look at this thread, if u have not already done so. U can see where the repair was made in the bottom of the box w/ glass and copper. I shud have fasten the copper to the box w/ some stainless screws. It did'nt occur to me at the time. http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=72915
Trying to install my A/C box (solo ... argh) now. Good info Everett, thanks for posting. Heater box clips ... to help keep from breaking the box, the best way to remove them (read it here ... it works) is to put a flat screwdriver into the channel on each side of the clip, and open it that way. Where possible, use two screwdrivers in an "X" ... crossing over each other. This will spread the clip open, and take the tension off of it and the box. You can do the same in reverse to gently install the clips, too.
