Can't afford a second car so I'm gonna build on!

Yep it's attached. First thing I wanted to get done was to get the windshield set back in. I cracked the Comet windshield. Still not sure how that happened. It was in and the last pull of the rope it cracked. Good thing I had a back up. On the brighter side...it still has the original windshield. :16suspect

 

Sealed up and moldings on.



Back inside for some welding.

 

Put off welding till tomorrow because the 5 patches I need to weld in needed to be sprayed with weld thru primer and I needed to prep the areas a little.

The time had come to try out my idea for protecting my cowls from rust (or rusting anyone worse). This is the product I used:



The can has a long hose with a small brass spray nozzle on the end. I removed the plugs in the top of the cowl (look like a rubber wedge) and drilled 2 other access holes. I dropped the hose down in the cowl vents and maneuvered it over pointing at the cowl top hat and sprayed the base. Then thru the top hole where the rubber wedge was. Then the 2 other holes I drill and last up thru the drain.

It might not do a thing but I figured it's worth a shot since the fenders were off.



Also tried out my Rivnut gun.

 

Its like zinc dichromate...Workes for aircraft...Should work for cars...I coated everything that hose would fit in on my mav project. Coverage is actually better than you think with that spray nozzle.

 

Nice progress.. I like the rivnut.

 

Left apron welded up.

 

Looks good. Are you doing a complete paint job now or later? And where did you get your rivnut tool? I got one from harbor freight many years ago and it didn't work very well. I'm not sure if it was the quality of the tool or the quality of the rivnuts that came with the tool(they were pretty cheap looking).

 

I'm getting it all together for paint later. I prefer painting with all the parts on the car so I know the fit is good and no damage in reassembly.

I found the rivnut tool at a local wholesale outlet. Seems to work good.

 

The right apron turned into a headache. The metal was still thin in the areas I was going to weld up so I had to cut out much bigger areas than planned and make new patches to weld in. Thankfully most all of this is under the fender so it can't be seen.



I gave the areas under the fenders a coat of satin black.

 

Got the hood and rt fender on. Left fender can't go on till I weld up the LDO trim holes.

 

It is interesting where the VIN number is stambed on the shock tower. I have never seen one stamped that far back on the front of the car. I have usually found it on the front aprons.

 

It's there on both sides. I'm guessing by the VIN thread here my car is fairly early for a 70 (not 69.5). My door panels are coded Dec 68.

Nothing done today because I had to take my son to get his wisdoms pulled.

One bad thing I didn't report was I thought my hood molding (which was NOS in the 80s) had 2 discolored areas I thought were black overspray. Upon closer inspection I found they are damaged spots I guess from bungee ties when I had it covered all these years.

Maybe they will buff out??? We'll see.

 

Regarding the discoloration ... it could be from bungees if you were using the black rubber ones. Rubber is naturally white, and they have to dye it to make it black. You get the same thing happening while woodworking. Protective rubber shoes that are on clamps will leave a "footprint".

I would first leave some type of paste chrome polish on there for a day or so and see if it does anything to dissolve the dye. It may float it out of the surface. It has to be a little porous in order to stain like that. Maybe wrap it in saran wrap while the paste is on there to keep it from drying out.

 

It's not just discolored, it's pecked up quite a bit from the hook on a bungee. If I can't save it, I'll hunt another. Dang shame the parts car I got was a Comet and not a Maverick. The hood lip molding was perfect. I sold it 3 months ago and got it back from FedEx last week?? I just reshipped it again.

Todays project has been the windshield. Dumb me didn't watertest it before I put the moldings on and it had a leak. I'm pretty sure the sealer was old. It was very hard to get to come out of the tube. I dug out everything I could and re-sealed it again with fresh 3m sealer. I hope it holds...if not I'll order a new tinted glass and let a pro do it. This is the first one I've had problems with.

Next I'm welding up the LDO molding holes on the left fender I'm using. Scared of too much heat so I'm using the nail method. You get a non-galvanized nail and tack the head in the hole. Less heat since you can tack weld it in.

 

Sometimes you can heat up the old sealer by putting the container in some boiling water. It makes it flow real nice.