My 72 Comet Build.....

The spatter is what I was asking about. So you layed down some black first? What kind of paint, more rattle can?

 

Thanks.....

Thank you.....

Because this spatter was black with green flecks, I used a black base first..... If it were gray with white/black flecks I would use a gray base first..... My entire floor top and bottom was painted with a coat of POR15 then a coat of Rustoleum satin black exterior paint.....

 

It's good to know that the urethane was compatable with all of that stuff.

 

Today I went to the shop and unmasked the rest of the trunk area and took a pic..... Then I readjusted the masking so I could paint the interior A-pillars, the panel under the rear window and the filler pieces for the ends of that panel..... I prepped and painted those areas, I also disassembled the rest of the tail lights so I could clean the housings up.....

Here is the trunk area with everything unmasked.....




Here is the freshly painted interior areas, they will dull down as the paint dries(it is the correct semi-gloss color for the interior - I will take more pic's tomorrow after it dries).....

 

looks good !

 

Thank you.....

 

Went to the shop this morning and unmasked the car and as I suspected the interior blue is too dark, big surprise..... I went ahead and glued the trunk seal in place..... I painted the inner tail light housings that I took to by work and cleaned up yesterday afternoon.....

Next I needed to address the paint color problems, I picked up some brite mixing white..... I proceeded to add white to the blue for the exterior until I got a decent match.... Then I went ahead and lightened the interior color a little to so I can respray it.....

After that I got the trunk lid, rear spoiler and rear valence I am going to use on the car down..... I laid out the the trunk lid for the spoiler mounting holes, punched them, drilled a pilot hole, used a 1" hole saw and then cleaned them up..... Then test fitted the spoiler, it looked pretty good so I went ahead and bolted the trunk lid on the car after removing the tape from the new seal install..... I polished up the lock assembly and installed it and the latch....

Before I leaft the shop I put a little filler on the center section and left end cap of the spoiler.....

Here you can see the difference in the new interior color on the a-pillar and the stock color on the door.....




Here is where I sprayed around the rear fenderwell opening previousely with the light blue(you can see how much darker it is closer to the opening), then a pic of a chip in the cowl before and after touching up with the now lighter blue.....






Here is the new trunk seal glued and taped in place, then with the tape removed before installing the trunk lid.....





Here is the trunk lid marked for drilling, then drilled and deburred, test fitting the center section of the spoiler, with the trunk lid back on the car, with the spoiler in place and with the holes touched up with paint.....

 

Great looking car, the fab work and detailing looks great. I was wondering how long is your rear end housing and what backspace wheel and tire size are you running.

 

Thanks..... I am not positive what the width is, but I believe it is 55"axle flange to axle flange(I will check it tomorrow when I go to the shop)..... The wheels are 15"x8" with a 3.5" backspace..... The tires are 275/60/15's..... The outer fenderwell lips are no longer there and the body has been rolled out some.....

 

Drilled my original 70 trunk lid the very same way with a 1 inch hole saw and the spoiler fit right into place

 

Today I decided to clean the tail light lenses, assemble the tail lights and install them on the car since that's probably the safest place for them.....

Then I went to the paint supply store and got some flattening agent for the interior color, I got the color to match good but it was still pretty glossy..... I added the flattening agent and sprayed the interior areas again and came to the conclusion that the interior just doesn't like me..... The damn flattening agent is a milky color and it lightened the color more, no it's too damn light although the sheen is really good for the interior..... I gave up for the day and went home.....

Here is the tail light parts ready to go together, lenses attached to the inner housing, the complete assemblies and then in the car.....










Here is what the interior color looks like now.....

 

Frank,
I recently went through the same issue in returning my interior back to the original Charcoal Black Metalic. Interior paint is a real pain. The "poly" paints appear to be interior colors.

Take a look at this site. They should have what you need.

https://www.carpaintonline.com/pain...rsItems=0&Year=1972&AutoMakerId=46&ModelId=46

Interior paint chips for '71:
http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=93870

Micah

 

Hi Frank. Simply because you're always so helpful and giving of your time around here.. any time you have paint related questions.. house, car, or otherwise.. feel free to PM me before spending any time or money on a project and I can likely save you on both in the long run.

There are several flattening agents which can be used and in various manners to avoid the issues you're seeing here but I would always recommend a prepackaged clear in the required gloss level to help avoid the need for additional wet or dry agents. Or at least reduce the amounts needed for desired gloss levels. Or if you desire more of an eggshell/matte finish?.. start with the satin clearcoat and add smaller amounts of dry or preferably wet flatting agents to that mix to achieve proper sample coat sheen. At this point I probably don't need to point out the obvious.. but never try to go from full gloss to an eggshell/matte finish or noticeable color change(milkiness) can often result from heavy additive use(more than about 15-25% ratios depending on the product used).

Unfortunately, at this point of the resulting color shift.. minor prep and recoats will be necessary to implement them. In your case I would recommend using a pre-packaged satin or matte finish topcoat and losing the additive package all together.

If you're already heavily invested in your tops/clears?.. then you may also consider using the House of Color FA01 additive. Another trick to avoid using too much of the FA01(or any) Flattening Agent(R-M's or BASF SM09 worked well for me in the past as well) is to mix into BOTH final color coat AND clearcoat. And/or use it as a final session of clear over a cured, and sanded clear base application, or to use it as a flow coat at the end of your final clear coat. This allows you to sneak up on the desired gloss level without the need for any single coat to have too high a ratio added to the mix. Hope that helps in any way.

 

The color I bought was the correct code, something wasn't right with it though..... I am also trying to get it closer to the vinyl the col0r then the factory did..... I appreciate the info.....

I do know they did use poly on interiors and exteriors..... Flats and Semi's on the interior, Gloss on the exterior.....

I appreciate the info, but I am using single stage acrylic enamel(no clear)..... I actually had the color just where I wanted it, but on the test panel it was too glossy..... So I got some PPG flattening agent for use with the DAR I am using, I just didn't realize how much it would take to get the finish I wanted..... The flattening agent was a milky color and lightened the color quite a bit..... I will know better the next time.....

 

Unfortunately nothing got done today sue to uncooperative weather!!!!!