Cylinder Head Spec Opinions?

Sweet! Just got back from the shop, again. Except this time, WITH MY HEADS!!!

So, complete head specs:

Aluminum Trick Flow knock-offs
Staggered valves with 2.02 Int./1.60 Exh.
58cc combustion chambers (after decking)
170cc intake runners
65cc exhaust runners
5 angle valve job
smoothed/blended bowls
all threaded holes helicoiled
Ferrea valves
Comp springs, retainers, and locks
$600 out-the-door

Not bad, I guess .

To answer some questions:

1.) Advertised cam specs: lift: .509/.512, duration: 268/280, LSA: 110

2.) Pistons: KB hypereutectic domed (solid) with valve reliefs

3.) If they don't work upon mock-up and claying, I'll post them for sale here, first. (discounted even further... read below)

4.) Yes. Shimming the spring seats to gain spec'd pressure at installed height across all springs is what I meant by "balancing." This process keeps the tappet hugging the cam lobe and helps prevent "valve float."

Fun story (for you guys, not me):

So, I asked Derrick if he could teach me how to run the mill and deck my own heads. BAD IDEA, but, Derrick agreed seeing as how I already paid for them. Got it all set up beautifully and the first pass was to be done by hand, moving the decking table by hand under the milling head. Apparently, this has to be done at a certain speed. I turned the crank a little too fast, at one point, and the head got gouged a little. Ouch.

"Experience is what you gain when the results are not what you were expecting."

I TIG every day at work (fabricator), but I didn't know you could TIG cast Aluminum. You can. It's very messy because of the porosity inherent to casting. Spatter everywhere. However, I welded up the head, put it back under the mill, held my breath, and it came out great. The other head I had no issues with. The second milling pass is done with the machine in control of the table speed. I like it better that way, anyways.

Please keep the feedback coming, guys. I like the fact that I'm hearing these heads should work. Although, if they don't, I guess it's too late now.

Eric

 

4.) Yes. Shimming the spring seats to gain spec'd pressure at installed height across all springs is what I meant by "balancing." This process keeps the tappet hugging the cam lobe and helps prevent "valve float."

Just so you know, and for future conversations with others:

That is called setting the spring installed height. It has absolutely nothing to do with balancing and/or keeping the valves from floating. The correct springs, set at the correct pressure will keep them from floating. I assume you have a valve spring rater, spring height checker and an assortment of shims to do all this? It takes some time and tools to do right. You should do it whenever you get away from stock parts, such as heads that have been worked on, aftermarket valves, different springs, retainers or keepers. It's a good practice that is often overlooked.

Also, are your heads set up for spring cups or are they just relying on the shims to do the job? Works either way, but it they were set up for cups and you don't use them you will have a big stack of shims under there.

Also, every aluminum head I've had welded (either to add material or make a repair) has been heat treated afterwards. It would depend on how much you had to weld and how deep it went.

Have fun and enjoy the new heads!
SPark

 

While I certianly don't claim to know everything about small block Fords.. I know far more than my fair share about their cylinder head availability. Offshore and on.

With that in mind.. I've never heard of a "twisted copycat head" and am having a hard time believing those valve angles are truly rolled and relocated as the originals were. All the offshore stuff is straight inline 20 degree.

I would drop development work on my RHS stuff in a heartbeat for some twisted valve angles. Got any pic's you can share with us?

 

Thanks, SPark! I was just using the terminology my machinist used. He said to take my measurements and he'd give me whatever shims I needed. He told me that a spring, installed at an incorrect height, will create a lack of proper pressure and, given a weak enough spring pressure, can cause valve float. Makes sense.

I'm using the "installed height" spec that came with the springs and a machined spacer he made me set at, exactly, 1.700" to check the retainer base height. These heads are going on a 5,000 RPM street motor, so, I'm not "overly concerned" if they're a few thousandths off. I just want them as good as I can get them in my own garage.

Also, at work, we've done that with cast iron (lowering the temperature, gradually, in an oven) post-weld. However, I've never done cast aluminum and the spot-repair was only, maybe, .015" deep. There was no cracking after the weld cooled and Derrick was ok with the work, so, I ran with it. 30 years experience, doing nothing but heads, is a pretty solid reassurance.

Thanks for the "heads-up,"
Eric

 

Sorry for the double-post.

Sure... but, these were all I could get before I just KNOCKED MY FRIGGIN' CAMERA OFF THE WORKBENCH!!! This has not been my day.

 

I hate to disappoint you but I don't think they are knockoffs, I'd bet those came out of the TF foundry... All mine have on them is a punched serial number and the TF patent is cast into the rough area by the valve springs, but it's weak...

Maybe were sold to independent builder?? I know Ron Pond buys his castings from E'brock before they do any work to them and ID's them as his once he works his magic...

 

Hmmm... good news, maybe. It'd be cool if that's what happened. That little number "2" and some washed-out casting symbol of some kind in the rocker galley is all that's on them.

Eric

 

I forgot to mention one of my heads has that same 2 but is slightly tilted(then maybe yours is as well), the other head has a 1 in same location...

 

Decently priced find there if they need minimal amounts of additional work. Looks to be an early version of the stock port location TW head.

The erosion around the water ports obviously means they're used so just be sure to go through em' completely before bolting them down. The guides should be checked for sure and I'd even go so far as to lap a valve or two just to make damned sure the valve job is on. Otherwise, something may be off and they won't last nearly as long before they need a full refresh. Good luck with it all.

 

ya, to me they look like old , old trick flow castings. ive owned trickflows's in various forms forevor, and they look like some earlier castings.

 

IIRC, didn't the early TW's have issues with the rocker arm geometries causing valve guide wear?

 

New valve guides were installed, so, I think I ought to be ok there. However, I tried to measure a few valve springs for installed height and I found there is about a 3/16" gap between the bottom of the valve retainer and the 1.700" spacer guide my machinist made for me. The spacer checks out on my calipers, so, does this mean the valve springs need base plates, or, something?

Eric

 

That was the bolt down rocker versions, those were discontinued within a year or so...

 

yep.. with AL heads you must have steel spring seats which also serve as spring locators. They can be had in either ID, OD, or both(cup style) spring locator designs.

Plan on another .060 or so(obviously double check actual part being ordered/used) of added spring preload and total max lift losses. If the springs get a bit too tightly coiled?(overtaxes/overheats/potential coil bind in over-rev).. you'll need taller valves and springs(probably 1.8 height's). You can alos adjust final installed height with + or -.050 valve keepers to dial it in.

It's been far too long for me to remember the valve length requirement for these older heads.. but I'm almost certain they were at least slightly longer than stock 4.910 length SBF stuff. Which usually meant more than 1.7 installed heights that some spring designs/ratings won't jive with. It always pays to check everything at least twice.

 

AFAIK the TF heads use SBC length valves, I run the 1/2" longer(6.8") flat tappet push rods with them in my roller 5.0...