zinc concentration doesnt really mean much when it also has roughtly same amount of more calcium deterngents in it...these two substances counteract each other, this subject gets tricky with flat tappet guys best bet(safe route) for flat tappet guys after proper cam/lifter breakin is to use either AMSoil Z-rod or Joe Gibbs Driven HR-2/HR-4 oils but some people are having luck running SM/SN-GF-5 dexious oils with flat tappets(seems to be stock to mild cams), so cam lift/duration and open/closed spring pressures may be the real culprit in cam/lifter failures more then lack or zinc or too much calcium concentration
Loving the Demon now that everything is tuned well, only thing I would recommend if you were going to look at one is look at the 750 CFM......It says it is great for highly modified small block V8's, I have ask in another thread the definition of "highly modified" small block V8
Yeah stought small blocks and mild big blocks started having fuel distribution issues with the 625..which is why they now have a 750 As.for highly modified smallblock..I'd say something with 500 and up crank horsepower
How do you think the platinum would do for a 200 - 6? Never ran synthetic in it but looking for a good recommended oil to change it out tomorrow. Also, any filter recommendations for the 200, I've always used the FRAM basic in the past. Thanks!
I like the look of the motorcraft filter and I just use whatever oil is cheapest 10 30 or 10 40 in my 200
Assuming not rebuilt in the last 10 years or so use either 10W-30 or 10W-40 High Milage oil, synthetic not necessary... After being in the engine for approx a year(that accumulated less than 100mi), the 10W-40 Quaker State Defy has stopped the drip from rear main in my 428... It'd had a small leak so long I don't remember when it didn't drip... Hasn't marked it's spot since before I installed the power steering back in March... Use a Motorcraft FL-1A filter, unless you're springing for some HIGH $$$ filter they are as good as you get for $3.50 or so...
Not necessarily looking to spend high $$$...just want to get the performance to match my engine abilities. The engine is stock so nothing fancy is needed, unless it will increase the performance on an old motor! thanks!
I recently changed the oil on my '63 Jag. 2,700 miles on the motor. I was running 20/50 conventional Castrol. I got some free Royal Purple 5/30 synthetic from Summit. Thought what the hell. It smoked so badly that after 50 miles I had to dump nearly 8 qts and buy some Castrol. No more smoke. This guys page on oil is interesting: https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/ Micah
I would recommend you run a Non-Synthetic Oil FIRST for another 1000 or 2000 miles and get some miles on the engine ... THEN .... do the synthetic . We broke in several engines in this manner and they all perform great.. We recently drove a 70 Maverick and a 74 Comet on a 3500 mile HRPT after a break-in with Non-Synthetic Valvoline Oil then changed to Synthetic Oil for the Tour and didn't use a quart of oil from start to finish . JMO Cometized (Chip)
as a FYI SamsDad has zero to do with posts #22 onward that pertain to a stock 200... Yes there should have been a new thread started...
