Are yall still running the OEM brake light switch, or have you modified and/or mounted a different switch to the pedal? While I was under the dash, I just shook my head and pulled everything out. The previous owner... Anyways, I'm sure all the original wires and connectors are removed, or useless, but he had a 2-wire switch rigged up to almost sorta work, so I'll just reuse those wires with a new switch of some sort. I guess I am fishing for ideas of what switch to use and how to mount it. If you have a picture of a "custom" brake switch install, that be helpful. Thanks guys, Northern
someone should have the stock switch and harness you could get... you will also need the clip, pin and keeper.
The pictures I find show the switch mounted with the brake booster shaft. It doesnt make any sense to me. The pin through the pedal is smaller than the holes in the switch. I'm having trouble getting the with and push rod pinned at the same time but I think I'll get it. Once its there, I'm not sure how it works as a switch. When its pinned in position, I dont see what switches on and off... totally confused on something so simple.
It always gives me a fit when I have to take one off and reinstall it. it has only one way that it will work and 3 ways it will go on wrong...
Yeah Frank i pulled the drivers seat out of mine a couple weeks ago when I was playing with rod length... It mounts like this(left side view) ... Not shown there should be a small nylon spacer placed on pedal stud first, followed by the M/C rod with a bushing inside the opening and switch placed on stud at same time(yeah can be a PITA)... Finally there is another spacer, followed by retainer pin... Here are parts with a extra switch and retainer pin...
I will agree w/ anyone who say's installing the switch is "PITA". I recently replaced my mc after removing it to facilate installation of Borgeson steering box. I had a Stang adjustable mc rod hanging in the garage for 3 1/2 yrs. I decided this is the time to install it. I put in the rod making it abt 3/8" shorter than the rod that comes w/ the mc. It lowered the pedal 1 in., I liked that height, but, the car felt like it had air in the system. After bleeding it twice, same results, took it to my man at local muffler/brake shop -- he bleed it and sed -- no air found in the sys. I removed the mc and put the correct rod in after struggling to remove the adj. rod "bent it" trying to get it out. As soon as I pushed the pedal, cud tell this was why engineers used this length w/ this setup. When I had the Stang rod I love the pedal height, but, not the fact the car didn't want to stop -- not enough travel to acquire proper psi to make the sys. function properly. I suppose I cud have played w/ the rod and found a happy medium between height & effiency, but wanted to get the car back on the road after being on jack stands for 10 weeks.
Paul that's incorrect(shore is purdy tho)... Unless you have a different configuration switch, lugs should be facing passenger side with switch pointed toward firewall...
KC, Thank you for taking the time to mock that up! Awesome example and explanation... I have the same switch (because I just bought it) but the pinning hole on the MC rod is a yoke thats just the width of the pedal, and it slides around both sides, then pins through. The pin is small, I'm not sure about the pedal hole yet, I'll check when I get home. There is no plastic bushings or washers. The switch fits around the pedal nicely, but it doesnt fit between the yoke and pedal. I dont know...maybe I'll just stretch it wider and try again. I'll snap a shot after bit and hand it up here...its the same, but different.
I've not used a rod with rounded end, the Ford rod is flat and can move slightly so it closes the switch contact...
That looks like a custom rod that someone cobbled together. You will want to get a factory style Rod if you want to use the factory brake switch. FYI the manual and power assist rods are different, with the power one being longer.
Comparing KC's and Paul's pictures to what I have, I am thinking someone converted my car to power brakes. Maybe my pedal and all is just different. I don't have the stud on the side of my pedal like in Paul's photo, mine is a pin all the way through. It doesn't look like a torch cut the stud off, so the pedal must be from a donor. Maybe this is why the old switch was jerry-rigged under the dash. I'm still going to try to install the factory switch and see if it functions, but if not, I guess I'll have to figure out another solution. Like always, you guys are a tremendous help! Thank you.
