I made my first pass in my car in a while yesterday and while the et wasn't exactly scary, the slowing down part was. I have a 73 with disc fronts and drum rear. I am thinking I may have some air trapped in the lines so I'm gunna try and bleed it, but I just wanted to see what everyone else is running. I'm just running factory stuff for now.
My '72 Grabber is still running the stock 4 wheel non-power drum brakes. Our '75 Comet GT has the stock style non-power front disc/rear drum setup. The Comet GT stops much better than the Grabber!
So I'm guessing I most likely still have air in the system. I only trapped 106. But it didn't feel like I had enough track left to slow down. Gunna try to bleed them more this weekend and see if it improves. All brake components have been replaced within past 4 years and it's an occasional driver so not a whole lot of use on them.
There must be something up there because that combo should do much better for this application in a lighter car. I've run MUCH faster than that with 4 wheel drum setups in the past and the initial bite torque on drums is actually very good. But where they really suffer is the quicker heat buildup/fade that comes from max effort and/or repeated stops.. none of which should really apply here. Also be sure to pull it all apart for cleaning/inspection and make sure you have no fluid weeps from any of the wheel cylinders. Light rust and brake dust buildup will usually hurt you a bit there too. Clean the machined surfaces and scuff the pads to freshen it back up to new and then bleed the lines.
I'm running factory manual front discs and drum rears. Not the best for short stopping distance, but it stops straight and there are no surprises on the initial hit at 110 mph. That initial hit is the most important factor for a drag car, IMHO. A LONG time ago I used to race a Brand X '55 with only back drum brakes. Didn't stop very well, but it stopped straight.
I bled the front a few different ways. Unfortunately the bleeder screws are not in the best shape ,so couldn't get the rears open. The hex portion on all were rounded. With this system not being super old, I want to put new bleeders in. Does anyone know the correct replacement ones? I got a much better pedal after bleeding but I think I can do better still