i want to relocate my battery to the rear truck. been llooking on line at different cables ! how much hot cable do i need to run from truck back up to solenoid i was thinking no more than 15 ft ?
.. relocating Batt to trunk has a few options, a safety disconnect is an option and required to run NHRA sanctioned events. pull the + Terminal off a typical Ford and the engine will continue to run on Alternator power. NHRA track rules require a disconnect on the rear of vehicle for safety, Ford charging system allows the car to run with battery disconnected and needs a (big) two-pole switch to disconnect battery and another to switch the Field Coil of the alternator to kill the engine. Ran wires thru flexible conduit to eng. compartment from trunk. hav e fun '61 Comet is NHRA legal . . . . -
IIRC, I picked up about 20 ft of 1/0 welding cable. After running it up front and a short 2 - 3 ft ground, there was about 3 ft left over.
thanks jason thats the answer i was looking for !thanks to you also powerband i will look into that as well, wanna do this the right way
My installation is basic, not NHRA like Powerbands. I used a 67 - 70 Mustang battery tray, welding cable, 200 amp breaker, nylon p-clamps, split nylon wire loom, rubber grommets, and bulkhead pass through. The negative goes through the trunk floor to the frame below. The positive runs to a 200 amp breaker. From the breaker it follows the wheel well around to the channel under the door sill plate. It exits into the front wheel well and runs along the frame to a bulkhead pass through in front of the shock tower, where it connects to the starter solenoid. Cover the cable with the wire loom to protect from scuffing/abrasions, secure along the way with p-clamps and use grommets or bulkhead connector when passing through metal.
I used the stock Maverick battery tray from my '75 and it worked great in the rear. I routed similar to Jason. My cable came out near the outside of the fender, so I routed it across the wheel well to the frame and covered this area with a plate to protect from a shredded tire.
Jason, do you have any additional pictures and advise on your battery in trunk installation? I am very interested. Thanks
Mine is basic and not as professional as some of the others. The cable exits the channel under the sill plate into the area behind the kick panel. I removed the splash shield from the wheel well. Made a hole with a grommet for the cable to pass through to the area behind the splash shield. The cable makes a left turn from behind the splash shield into a trough over to the frame rail where it makes a downward sloping right turn to the bottom of the rail. It follows the rail under the A-arm and then slopes upward to an existing hole where I installed the bulkhead pass through. Secure it with nylon p-clamps along the way so that it will not move and chafe, put the splash shield back on. It has been that way a few years and we have not had any problems starting, charging, or otherwise. I HIGHLY recommend welding cable. It can carry high current and is easy to route.
tip for less arduous, shorter B+ cable install/route is to use electrical "Sealtight" conduit and fittings when visibility not primary. . conduit along DS tunnel usually is tucked under rug ( boat carpet ) . have fun . https://www.homedepot.com/s/seal ti..._-1|1|3-_-typeahead-v2-search-api-_-sealtight
