hey everyone. im changing my auto maverick trans into a manual transnmission. but ive ran into a problem when putting the clutch cable. the booster in my car doesnt give me any room where to put in the clutch cable into the foot peddle. the reinforcement tube, there is no place to put in in the firewall. any suggestons?
I have never used a cable. My conversion used the stock z-bar and I made my own pedal assembly. What tranny are you using? Have you thought about a hydraulic clutch? You can get those where the master is under the dash, and the only thing you need to route into the engine bay is the tube going to the resevior. Then a line to a hydraulic throwout bearing keeps everything super simple and clean looking. I know it costs more, but just throwing some food for thought. The only clutch cable I have ever been involved with was on my father's Chevy. That thing pulled through the firewall over and over. He patched the firewall so many times it looks like a metal quilt.
Oh, as for the booster... Many Ford folks with Mavs, Falcons, and early Stangs, cars with small engine bays, use later model small brake boosters from small cars/imports to get power brakes without using cumbersome stock units. I believe one booster that is a nearly direct swap is from a Geo. It is thin and small diameter. I don't know if this will give you any extra clearance for a cable, but it's more food for thought.
the transmossion is out of a mustang. insteadof hydraulic pump it has a cable which goes thru the firewall into under the bay. but the booster just leaves no space. but i never thought of a hydraulic pump.
Yeah, that'd be a T5 most likely. They used a cable in Stangs. You need to read this T5 swap thread: http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=74695 I don't know if he is using a slave or a hydraulic TO bearing. Personally, I'd prefer the bearing because that take a whole bunch of work/fabbing out of the equation.
im using a slave cylinder. the hydraulic to bearing for the t5 is around 300 bucks!!!. the slave cylinder is under 60 bucks. i can buy the cylinder mounting bracket, clutch fork and throw out bearing for 1/2 the cost of the the hydraulic to bearing. im useing this slave cylinder http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Push-Type-Slave-Cylinder,1944.html
I have a cable system but it took a lot more work than I would care to do again. If I had it to do over I would consider hydraulic. I didn't do it before b/c I didn't want a master cyl in the interior. After pulling the cable through the firewall and burning 3 clutch cables and having to wrap the headers and the cable just to make it work well in traffic I might rethink the hydro route. As for the power brakes, hydraulic is going to be almost a necessity if you want to retain the pedal arrangement since the power pedal runs up at an angle to prevent all the re-engineering involved trying to make that work. I had to reinforce the firewall at the cable mount with a plate to prevent pulling it through. that metal isn't designed for those type stresses in that area.
if you want a stick shift that put it in. there is always a way. you just have to research you options an choose what is best for you. if you what to stay with power brakes and a cable set up then consider going to a hydra boost system. it uses power steering system pressure to boost the brakes. its alot more compact than they vac. boost system you have. its used on lots cars now days and you could get it out of the junk yards if you wanted. it would give you room for a cable system. spend the time to use the search feature on this site and you will find lots of info on swaping to a stick shift and also power brake swaps.
No, absolutely not, if it's a manual you want, you should get the manual. I was just trying to let you know what I ran into during the swap so you might know what to expect (fewer suprises, hopefully) I would say with power brakes, you might have an easier time going with the hydraulic set up because several guys on this forum have adapted the hydraulic system to work with several different setups and and it seems that it is more reliable than the cable arrangement. I also used as many off the shelf Ford parts as possible (only for availability) but there is a lot more out there now than there used to be btw: there is nothing like tearing through 1st and yankin' a hard 2nd, sideways up the road...
