old thread i know.. but, if you want monotube gas shocks all around fronts would be kyb-gas a just for mavericks rears will be monroe sensa track for a 85 nissan 720 p/u mustang front 620 springs with one coil cut double roller spring perch for front.. pst leafs with reverse eye 4 leafs.. with around 150lbs spring rate? pst swaybars wider rims/tires for w/e diameter rim you like.. anyone know if the roller idler arm or any v8 early mustang idler armwill work with mav steering?
I read in a resto-mod book (don't have it handy, or I'd quote the title) that for the control arms, it's best to use high quality (like Moog) control arm bushings and poly for the sway bar. The argument was that unless it's a purpose built track car, poly is a little too stiff, which hurts drivability and road comfort and poly dries out and squeaks WAAYYY too easily. They do make greasable poly bushings which help (but don't eliminate) this problem. the poly for the sway bar bushings and end links is a definite go since they really help with body roll our cars are notorious for. I whole-heartedly agree with this mentality. High quality rubber replacement bushings for ride quality, poly for the sway bar. This combination has worked wonderfully for me on several cars I've restored as well as 2 mavs I've owned.
I bought a 7/8 inch swat bar for the rear of mine from NPD national parts depot. I believe it was for a 65-67 mustang, I can check. If you call them just don't tell them it's for a maverick cuz they won't sell it to you. My friend has a couple mavericks and this is my second one and we had to go back weeks later and talk to a different guy and say we had mustangs. I think it was $150-175
Can you post some pics of that setup? I'd be interested to know how close it gets to the shock on the right side.
I had no real fitment problems at all. You do have to drill holes for the end links in the frame that's no big deal though. It is close to the breather vent for the rearend but that's it. Will takes pictures later, at work now. Made a huge difference. I want a big front sway bar but don't know what fits. You'll also have to cut off the excess bolts that attach it to the rearend cuz they will hit the under carriage area. But once again no big deal. No need for 2-3 inches of bolt past the nut anyway.
Interesting. I was planning to get the Addco rear swaybar kit for Mavericks but there's no way it would be compatible with my lowering blocks, which I pretty much need so that the leaf springs will clear my rear disc brakes. I'm hoping maybe this alternate kit might be the ticket.
you could clock your backing plates so the bolt misses the leaf spring than add the sway bar on. thats what I got on my car, explorer rear discs and I have the rear swaybar...
I did the leaf replacement from an econoline van, rear sway bar, 15x8 front and rear wheels however the front tires are narrower. 205/60 r15 front 225/60r15 rear. Whatever you do, do not use squared tires in the front it will kill your suspension and alignment, in my opinion these cars are not meant for squared tires. And some Damn good shocks! You'll be cruising like a champ.
Does any one have some picks of there rear sway bar set up. i just redid the front suspension and it feel good going down the road. I also put in new leaf springs and rear shocks but the back end still need something.
i still dont quite understand about square edged tires. are you referring to low profile tires that have a rigid side wall or something else.
I replaced just about all the front end pieces, poly swaybar links and 225/60-15s vs the 205/75-14s up front . I don't have any numbers but the car definitely handles better with minimal body roll.
I think he's talking about what I picture as stock tires like off my dads 48 Chev. Or similar sidewall design as a BFG A/T that I have on my truck.. I guess you could call them a squared? Sidewall as they do have a crisp edge and are not rounded over into the tread