Ok first off I have a 69.5 Mav with the stock 72 motor out of my old mav in it and I want to install a cam that will sound nice at idle and give me more top end rpm because when I had a tach hooked up in it the car would fall on its face at 4500-5000 rpm I'm hoping that I can do this with a easy swap of a cam and lifters and not have a headache of ordering new pushrods and what not because I'm really not the educated on doing that type of stuff ......it just makes my head hurt lol It has stock ported heads 289 performer intake 600cfm edelbrock carb Power fire distributor Summit long tube headers to 2 1/2 inch exhaust and dual flowmasters Hooked to a t5 trans with a 12 pound flywheel and stage 3 clutch 9" rear with 389 gears
i would say like the 280h thats a 512 lift i ran one in a ranger with about your same set up you have to change your valve springs with about any cam thu
That cam with stock heads.. I can see rocker studs pulling out pretty quick. Stock heads I wouldn't go past comp cams 268h cam.. And wih that being said I had that cam back the studs out as well.
Personally.. unless you really know how to tune for a bigger cam.. I would stay with something around 270 MAX duration(and 260'ish+ may be better). Regardless of what you do go with though.. stouter springs will be a necessity as the stock ones are barely good for anything even when they are perfectly new. And find a split pattern(higher duration and lift on exhaust) with tighter LSA(lobe seperation angle) to emphasize exhaust scavenging on the really weak exhaust port design. Tighter LSA cams not only make more power in "street rpm" ranges.. they sound meaner too. A bit less vacuum.. but as long as you're still around 270 advertised.. it should still be more than fine for power brakes. if you really want to get the best bang for the buck.. get a custom cam from these Ford specialists that will not be some cookie cutter.. "one grind fits all" and will be specifically tailored to what you want to get out of your particular combo. Only slightly more money.. for considerably more power than off-shelf stuff. http://www.camresearchcorp.com/index.php
The only cams I've ever used in a stock early small blocks were the one advertised to be a RV cam. Better than stock but not too much for stock internals.
on the reread.. I myself would lean more towards a 260'ish cam with that little intake manifold. I would also recommend a 4 hole spacer for it too. Or if you go with a bigger cam than that?.. go with an open spacer instead. Either way.. you'll get better midrange out of a spacer on such a little manifold like that. An larger plenum/runner'd RPM manifold would be a better choice me thinks. Also IMHO, with a 5 speed and 3.89 rear gear.. too short a cam will make you feel like you're driving a tractor motor unless you put some cam in it. With too small a cam.. for the first 3 gears it'll be.. floor it for 3 seconds and hurry up and shift before it overruns past peak(runs out of duration).
Yeah it sounds like the rest of your driveline is set up for a 300hp powerplant. Maybe you need to start on a new long block rather than investing in the stock engine.
nahhh.. I'd say just runn'er till she starts blowing smoke rings out the breathers and exhaust pipes.. and then spend the money to upgrade. Or.. just put thicker oil and hotter plugs in her and runn'er some more. :bananaman Stock block setups can VERY easily take 300 horse combo's without issue. Which is what the "aftermarket combo's" was created from in the first place.
If you want sume rump, rump... Says can be used with a stock converter but I'd go with a 2400... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-k3601 This one will give you a better idle and good top end, but with either you'll prob need stiffer valve springs if you want to turn past 5200-5400 and then you should have screw in studs... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-k3600
The Lunati "Bare Bones" line has some pretty good reviews and the price is good too. If I were building a new engine for the street, I'd go with the Thumpr cam because I like to sound. Some call them a poser cam but they do run pretty good from what I've seen. It seems that most of the people that make fun of them have never used one. I like this Maverick with a 347 and Thumpr cam. The comments are comical though. No Grabbers till 72. The car is missing the Grabber hood and grill. and so on.
Ok I'm searching lol I do have a open 1" carb spacer on it and if Ivan dude a cheap intake what type should I get ......Craig's list ....?
I'll say it one last time just in case you missed it.. the cam research guys can squeek more power out of just about any Ford combo than any off shelf grind ever will because that's their specialty. I've had at least 5 cams from them through the years and they do know their stuff. And best of all.. it's not quite as much as you'd expect it to be for a custom grind either. As for the intake.. the cheaper chinese Edelbrock knockoffs are cast fairly poorly.. not that Edelbrocks are without faults too.. and can be a PITA on some ocassions due to poor castings/machine work/bolt alignments. Not saying to avoid them altogether.. just that saving money sometimes comes at a price too. IMO, any larger air-gap style manifold will be decent enough for what you're after here.
I know I'm just trying to keep this on the cheaper side of 400 and hope I can get a better edelbrock intake What do you think about these setups I really like this one....and it comes with the gaskets http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=170893118168&index=20&nav=SEARCH&nid=94856066794 http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=140913118211&cmd=VIDESC
I have a neighbor down the street that just finished installing a Thumper in his 68 Stang's otherwise stock 68 302. Now he's got to drain the fuel and pour in some 93 octane premium to run it. Just sittin in the carport reving it, you can hear the knocking. Knocking not pinging. Me? I'd stick with nothing larger than the Comp 268H. He bought the cam not knowing what it was. He called me to help him, he thought maybe his rockers were adjusted too tight and could not get it to idle less than 1200 rpms. I worked it over not knowing about the cam change, rockers were right at zero lash, all needed another half turn to set the preload. Then I went thru and set the timing (his balancer I think has slipped ever so slightly, it will not idle at less than 16*BTC) Then moved on to setting the carb. Still couldn't get it to idle under a grand in park. Then he mentioned the cam change............................... and the fact that it didn't "sound smooth" as it did before. I told him he was pretty well stuck with what he had now, (premuim fuel and the fast idle) unless he wanted to do it all over again. They call it a "Thumper" but I've run better sounding EFI roller cams. (B303 and the Z303) Groberts mentioned tighter LSA cams breathing better ? I beg to differ. I've found that the wide LSA EFI cams have a much cleaner idle and tune than the old narrow LSA cams when running a carb. Both the B303 and the Z303 sound wicked idling at 500 rpms (in gear at that) And don't seem to "load up" with fuel in the intake sitting idling for long periods.
