...has anyone done this mod? i was looking at the template for the lowering of the holes . i cut it out and tried it on my '73 mav. i have a reinforcing plate on the outside of the shock tower. it is not on the mustang they are using for their mod. not only is the plate in the way but there are factory spot welds about the size of a dime right where the holes need to be drilled. this plate on my car would need to be massaged/removed for this mod. to work. they even say 1 7/8 in. would be better (not going to happen). anyone have any input on this mod??? ...frank...
Sorry, Frank. I see in the other thread where the link didn't work. Here is the "new and improved" template link: http://members.cox.net/mbstang/template.jpg I'll attach it to this message also. I have the Shelby Drop on mine, but I don't have anything to compare it to as I never drove the Maverick without it. I did the mod when I replaced the front suspension (right after I bought the chassis). I'm also wondering if that is why I can't get enough negative camber. :16suspect
For what it's worth (attached). edit: Also here is a great link explaining the theory: http://www.joesfalcon.com/frntsusp/susp1.html
I know what it is, but I didn't do it. Don't know anyone who has. No '65/'66 Mustang that I have seen has the reinforced towers-that showed up on big block Mustangs in later years. Good luck. Seth
The mod IS NOT recommended for Drag vehicles. But is supposed to make for better handling on street or road coarse type cars.
Okay, here are a couple of pictures. 1" drop, 1/8" back. This would not work with standard upper control arms without beating on the shock tower to provide a little clearance. I am using Moog Saver rubber bushing kits instead of the stock type steel-on-steel bushings. Edit: added the shock tower without a-arm. The bottom hole to the front was deformed because the nuts were not tight. This was pounded flat, the metal layers welded together and the bolt hole redrilled.
[ It has to do with your roll center, I just read a good article on this suject and it's pretty intresting how bad the set up on these car are. Basically if you draw a line threw the pivot and the ball joint of the upper A arm and draw another line threw the pivot and ball joint of the lower. Draw both lines toward the center of the car if you notice the stock set up they never meet. By lowering the upper mount they will meet. What does this give you? Well now the upper and lower A arms cycle in different arcs, as the car travel threw a corner and the outside wheel compresses it will pull the upper part of the tire inward thus keeping the tread flat on the ground. The inside wheel extends the upper portion the the wheel will move out keeping the tread flat on the ground also. This will give the car the best possable traction.
Okay, see above. The two notches at the bottom of the shock tower had to be extended to allow full suspension travel. The hole that appears deformed became that way from having the a-arms and springs installed without tightening the a-arm nuts. This was fixed before assembly. The one inche drop puts the bottom of the end cap on the a-arm shaft low enough that you would have to "massage" the area at the back of the shock tower for clearance. The front would be tight but would fit. The rubber bushings shown are not optimal for racing but do provide a nice, quiet, smooth ride. The life expectancy is about 40,000 to 50,000 miles before they would need to be replaced. All this is shown on a '70 Maverick.
