More Cylinder Heads Questions

[73Mav]

Thanks everyone for the input on the GT40P heads thread. I think I have decided on the E7TE heads. Now the first problem is where to find some. I have been told that they are the most economical solution for a power upgrade, but they seem to be getting rare. What vehicles/years were they standard on? I know they will flow better that the stock heads I have, but will I gain much from going to larger valves without porting and polishing, or would I need to do that too?

Also, will my stock 73 Maverick exhaust manifold work with the E7's or will I have to make modifications, i.e. hedders? I am planning on changing to a 4 bbl carbuerator and intake manifold, but I don't want to have to make a lot of changes to the car required (I think?) if I change to hedders. I have power steering and the shifter on the column, both of which I understand have to be relocated to add hedders.

Thanks for the help. I am trying to get an idea of how far I need to go before jumping into the rebuild.

[EFIMAV]

Sorry 73 mav, I indicated that I have a set of heads for sale in the other post but for some reason I adressed it to Jeremy. If you are interested you can email me at wm12345@hotmail.com. See the post from before for a description. I thought I would try the board before going to ebay! Thanks

[CometGT1974]

I have a set of stock heads off of a 90 mustang....the heads were removed when the motor had approx. 80,000 miles on it. They have been sitting in my garage ever since....I keep them covered with WD-40 so there's no rust.....I also have a set of 1.72 rockers for them.....let me know if you are interested....

smoore53@charter.net

[Old Guy]

The posts from you that I read indicate you would like to keep your car very streetable and yet have a little more HP to play with at the stop lights etc. The biggest restrictor on small block Fords are the cyl. heads, your choice to install the E7's will probably help a lot but to use stock manifolds and existing carb set up is a waste of time for the money spent on the heads. In my experiance, I purchased a set of 60cc iron heads and had them rebuilt with 1.94 valves and screw in studs with guide plates. Total bill was near 850.00. They performed well for over seven years now with one valve job done a couple years back. But when you price the aftermarket ones available, iron or aluminum, the cost of mine seven yrs back is about the same and you are getting a better flowing head which is brand new with some warranty. Have been where you are now and learned that adding one thing to and engine and not matching a corrosponding item(headers, intake, carb, etc.) is kind of a futile attempt and lots of spent money for negative power results.

My opinion is to go ahead with your rebuild and maybe spend the extra bucks for the E7's or even early 351W's. Performer RPM manifold and some sort of carb(Edelbrock 600 for out of the box improvement) or a Holley if you desire. While you are rebuilding should look at a little better cam to work with the heads etc. The shorty Mustang headers will help and eliminate some clearance problems, but the inexspensive Hedman long tube ones are a real boost for torque etc. Assuming you are running a C4, rebuild it and put in a shift kit, after all this is done a torque convertor to match the rest of your components is in order. Lastly get a lower rear end gear and traction bars of some sorts. I know this all sounds like a lot to change and pricey but over a period of time you will see that doing it all right the first time around is actually cheaper in the long run. Or", for fun and little money, heads, manifold and four barrell carb with a 4:11 rear end will surprise the hell out of a bunch of other cars at the stop lights too. As the old saying go's it takes money to go fast. But you can get a real nice street sleeper for just a few bucks also, if the combinations are right.

[EFIMAV]

Old Guy, or anyone for that matter. Didn't ford dish the piston in 1973 to decrease the compression? Therefore, the head chamber volume is around 60ccs for the 73 heads. I know for a fact that the E7 heads have 64-66cc chambers designed to be used with flat top pistons. If you put those heads on the 73 block you will lower an already low CR. Do I have this correct?

[Charlie]

64cc? I don't think they were that big. I personally cc'd my E7TE heads and they are 58.5 cc. Yes they have been milled a couple times, but it was just to flatten them not just for compression. Milling is always an option if that is in fact the case.

[73Mav]

Old Guy,

Thanks for the suggestions. I was already planning on doing some of what you suggested: change intake and carb, new cam, and as the thread suggests change the heads. I would like to do it all now, but money and time preclude that. I bought this car in non-running condition, needing a valve job, about a year ago. I decided to rebuild the engine for the experince and to give it more power. Now I have the engine out, and am trying to decide on all the upgrades. I didn't realize how many options/consequences would be involved in choosing new heads. I knew the cam change would be called for, but all the other variables that depend on what heads I choose (which headers if any, what pistons to use, rockers, etc.) seem to have me running in circles.

I have recently started considering rebuilding the C4 as you recommend. This, like the rest of the task of rebuilding the engine, is going to be a new one for me. I was thinking of getting the high performance C4 rebuild kit from JC Whitney while I the block is off getting machined. Is this what you would recommend? How difficult is it to rebuild this transmission?

Thanks,
73Mav

[Old Guy]

First I want to say that what you are doing is a very fine thing in my book. Wanting to learn as you work on this project is sometimes a rarity these days, some buy there cars ready built and some have the work done by someone else. This is not all bad for some idividuals but of course in my day(1950's on up) we had to learn by doing just to keep those old lead sleds running from day to day. Again, stand proud as you finish each segment of your project, you will deserve it.

The C4 is probably one of the easiest of trannys to rebuild and a good learning tool for automatics. My first suggestion is to get hold of good Ford C4 rebuild book like a Haynes or Chiltons, read the basic principals of the workings of the transmission and then make sure you have the right tools on hand to do the job. As you take it apart lay everything out on some surface or bench in the order you remove it. Follow the directions in the book and keep small parts together. Snap ring pliers and a dial indicator are required as is a press or some c clamp vise grips to compress the clutch piston spring etc. This will all be shown in the manual.

For lack of space in this post I can't go through the whole procedure but the manual will show you how. An automatic trans is nothing but a large hydraulic pump that puts fluid through various valves etc. to engage and disengage clutches and gears to drive an output shaft to turn the rear wheels. I am no professional trans guy but have done many types for racing and my own daily drivers. As far as the high performance rebuild kit, save your money, get a regular kit at the trans parts shop and it will work fine in your HP range etc. A good shift kit in the valve body will be of great help, I get the master kits from the supplier for less than 50.00 and after you have done that part , if you will email me I can tell you how to put a shift kit in your valve body for less than a McDonalds burger. If you have a local scrap yard, not a salvage yard, near you, look around it for C4's. I find them all the time and can buy them for 12 to 20.00 for parts. Have run C4's on several 400-450HP race cars and never used any high dollar race parts in them(never trashed any of them other than a normal clutch wear over time). Very underated trans. to say the least, while your at it be sure and include a "Good" trans cooler to add on when your done.

Any info needed just ask.

[EFIMAV]

I think this is an important issue for those looking at upgrading their old 302s with newer heads. When I compared the E7TEs that I have to the 58cc heads from a 68 there is a very distinct difference in the combustion chamber size. Also when comparing the E7TEs to the 69cc heads on a lnicoln 302 I could see some difference. The mustang pistons are basically flat tops with valve reliefs. They come up pretty close to the deck. With a 58cc head the compression would be more like 10.5:1 wouldn't it. The mustangs are 9.5:1 implying either a different piston or head. I have one printed source that indicates the E7TEs are 64-66 but it is off of the internet and who knows how accurate it really is! Charlie, I know you have a lot of good source material so can you find some reliable published info on this? Thanks, Ward

[Thack]

Here's the info I have from How To Rebuild a Small Block Ford
71-74 heads with casting numbers
D1TZ-A D2OE-BA have 58.2 cc chambers

Mustang 5.0 Technical Reference and Performance Handbook has the E7TE-PA at 60.6-63.6 and during the production run ford revised its chamber volume specs from 59.0-63.6 to 60.6-63.6.

So if you had a compression ratio of 8.0 to 1 with the head change you would have 7.6 to 1 not to dramatic and just right for a supercharger