Hi guys, I am in the middle of swapping in a 3-speed toploader originally from a '72 302 Maverick into my C4 equipped '73 302 Maverick and I have a few questions I was hoping you guys could help me with. And I'm sorry if this has been covered before, but I tried searching and couldn't seem to find exactly what I was looking for. 1. I thought that there would be a plug or knock-out in the firewall for the rod that goes from the clutch pedal to the top of the z-bar, but I couldn't find one. I assume I just need to drill a hole for it, correct? 2. I got a z-bar repair kit that includes 2 felt washers, 2 bushings, and a flat washer and I think that these go on the frame and engine mounts for the z-bar, but I am not sure. If so, in what order do they go? 3. Will the starter that I used with my C4 work with the new setup? I am using a 157 tooth flywheel if that matters. 4. And lastly, will the metal plate that goes between the engine and bellhousing from my C4 work with the manual? And if it doesn't work, where can I find the right one besides a factory 302 Maverick with a manual tranny, which would be hard to find. Thanks guys, I hope I don't sound too stupid for asking these things, but these are the last few things that are keeping me from getting my car put back together and on the road.
Not sure, but will probably have to drill a hole Never did this, so I might be wrong, I was once before, but that was a long time ago before I knew anything, and now I've forgotten what I knew back then!
1) The spot where the bar goes through the firewall is cut out on one layer of sheetmetal. You should see it under the master cylinder. Don't cut the hole in the interior side of the metal until you measure the boot. The hole needs to be smaller than the factory cut hole on the outer layer. Ask me how I know .... 2) You should be able to find some factory diagrams of the setup on this forum 3) Manuals and Auto's had different starters ... the snouts are different. 4) You probably need a manual tranny spacer ... it looks nothing like the C4 spacer from the ones I have seen. There is also not inspection cover on the manual plate.
Ok, thanks guys. I just bought the right spacer plate off of ebay and once I measure the boot for the clutch linkage I'll be ready to cut the hole for it out. It shouldn't be too much longer and I'll have everything back together. Thanks
Ok, well I ran into a problem today. I took my flywheel to O'Reilly's to have it resurfaced but in doing so we discovered that it has cracks all in it so I can't use it. So now I need a 157t 28oz flywheel and I've discovered that all of the flywheels that I find are drilled for 10.5" clutch, but the one I have is a 10". So I gotta get a new clutch set too. And does anyone have any suggestions on flywheels or which ones not to get? There are some on ebay for around $130 but that seems too cheap and I don't want to cheap out on this.
Any mustang (or other ford for that matter) with the same tranny should use the same fork. On the flywheel issue, My 157t wheel has two sets of holes for the pressure plate. I assume that's for different clutches. Can't tell you what it came from because I dug it out of a pile of flywheels at a junkyard. You can surface your cracked flywheel if you have to. Though, you may get chattering problems. Or you could just(if your bellhousing will accommodate) get a 10.5 clutch.
If they are Hairline cracks(get a pick) you can typically resurface.....sometimes parts guys want to sell you a part cuz there lazy...
Most of the aftermarket Billet flywheels have holes to accommodate most clutch setups. I went with a CenterForce diaphragm clutch on mine ... works great and lighter pedal than the factory long style. According to parts book ... 1970 Mustang 250,302,351 used the same Clutch Fork as a Maverick 302 .... D0DZ-7515-B .. it was then superceded by D3DZ-7515-A ... EDIT: as per cougar site: Cougar 1970, 351 Engines. Mustang 1970, 250/302/351 Engines. Maverick 1971 – 1972, 250/302 Engines. Grabber Comet 1971 – 1972, 250/302 Engines. GT Fairlane 1970, 250/302/351 Engines. Torino / Ranchero 1970 - 1971, 250/302/351 Engines. Montego / Cyclone 1970 – 1971, 250/302/351 Engines. MX The engineering number on the Fork should be D0DA-7541-B .... there are a couple of eBay that are not correct. They are listing them as 68-70 Forks ... but the parts guide does not show 68 & 69 using same fork as 1970. Hopefully somebody on the board can help you with the Fork ... I don't think it's repopped ... Found some if they have them in stock ... http://www.cougarpartscatalog.com/d0dz-7515-b.html
And you run the risk of a dangerously thin flywheel, one with hairline cracks in it. Yea, that's a GREAT IDEA !! Old flywheels are nothing but an accident wating to happen.
Have you ever machined a fly wheel yourself? Well, I have and while I cannot say I have done thousands I have done roughly a hundred. Hair line cracks can be as little as a a .020 machine job to machine out. Same with brake rotors and I have machined thousands of those. I have also read quite a few books on metallurgy and helped at a machine shop whenever I could spare time for about 5 years. I asked for a picture to give better advice as well.... Did you know most auto parts store offer re-man fly wheels? They are fly wheels that pass inspections and are (gasp here) old machined flywheels. Besides I have never seen a flywheel come apart except at the the race tracks.....and in that case you should have an sfi bell housing to catch any debris in the event a failure. Not to mention a performance flywheel or flex-plate(suggested of course unless required by sanctioning race body).... I try not to chime in unless I have real world xp and/or true learned wisdom on a subject.
Yes, I HAVE had flywheels machined and seen the results when they come apart. There's a minimum thickness for each and I've yet to see a machinst who knew exactly what that was. Unlike brake rotors that have the minimum cast into them, it's always been absent on the ones I've seen. Not only are they potential bombs waiting to go off, when you machine em down past that point, you also run into clutch adjustment problems. You want to run old flywheels ? Go right ahead. But don't tell someone else that doesn't know any better that they're perfectly OK. You pulled em out of a junkyard, you have no idea what it was put though by the last person to run it. They could have been using it as an anvil to beat lawnmower blades for all you know.
Any good machinist would have a book or a nice computer program with that spec and some fly wheels come with it stamped or machined in with the min thickness spec...It is like any piece of metal. All metal has a finite life but having said that.....I have yet to see any any fail. never once(except one or two at the track) where, yes I agree you need a new one start. For every day use a machined used one that passes spec is just fine. If you can not see that then that is your own fault. Anyway you got any pics of the damage that happened after one exploded, you got any missing toes etc......????? Your post clearly indicates that you had one machined it blew up on you and most people would take pics of that carnage..... Cranks and cams and rods have all made their way through the block as well....I suppose you always buy new in that case as well.... I'm almost scared to get into my car today.....you got me so scared.....lol I guess you got infinite money to waste but for the rest of us machining a flywheel that cleans up correctly and is still within in specs is just fine. (i.e you would have no issues with clutch engagement) To each his own......I suppose..... Just a thought I have seen flywheels lightend to the point that I would be scared of them.....yet racers use them with no ill effects. Maybe you had a bad xp but one bad xp does not justify the ends you have put forth here and if they used it as an anvil "I" would know by inspecting the part. I have an anvil
I've tried to use flywheels that were machined beyond their minimum thichness. And they're more trouble than they're worth. And while I haven't experienced first hand what happens with an exploding flywheel I DO know it happens, just as I've never experienced a Nuclear detonation, I DO know they've been set off. Your analogy that If I haven't seen an explosion, that I must not know what I'm talking about is weak at best. I just replaced the clutch, pressure plate and flywheel in my 99 SD F250 (diesel) and while everything looked ok, I had no pedal left to operate it with. There was plenty of clutch material on the disc, and the flywheel and pressure plate disc looked completely normal. But none of these parts worked in operation together. And NO, I'm not rich, and I don't have money to throw at new parts, but I have learned after 35 years of practical mechanical experience (cars, 18 wheelers and heavy equipment) that some parts should definately be tossed and replaced with new parts to avoid unnecessary headaches and problems down the road. So, keep your assinine comments to your self, you're not talking to some "wet behind the ears" kid here. Running a machined to minimum thickness flywheel that's got stress cracks in it is just plain ignorant, stupid, dumb (take your pick)
Wow, thanks for all your help guys. I hope I can find a used fork somewhere cause I really don't feel like spending $75 but I will if I have to. That seems weird that the '69 and '70 Mustang forks don't interchange, but oh well. The reason I need one is because the one I have has a hole where the clutch linkage usually rests against the fork. And as for the flywheel, yes many of the cracks are hairline but there were a couple that were quite deep and I would feel better using one that is in better shape. I also found a direct replacement for my flywheel so that solves both the flywheel and clutch issue. Hopefully this will be the last of the issues I will have for this project and once I am done I will let you guys know how it went. Thanks again
