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#1 |
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Drew Pittman
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Need traction!
As you might know from this thread, I took my car to the track and ran a disgraceful 14.7 in the quarter. I'm on a stock 3.00 open-diff rearend. I knew the car wasn't going to perform to its potential. I expected traction to be my biggest problem, but I underestimated just how bad it was going to be.
Horsepower is not an issue at all. Somebody correct me if you think I'm wrong, but I think this car has 12's in it - If I can ever get it to hook. So I've decided I need the following, in no particular order: Drag radials. A decent gear. (somewhere in the 3.5-3.73 range) Locker/Spool/Trac-lock, etc. Traction bars. What I need from y'all is to help me put these things in a particular order. Which of these is going to help me the most? Which should I do first? Or is there even any point in going back to the track without all of these things?
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![]() 351w .040" over, GT40 heads, Comp XE268H (268/280, .510/.512), flat top pistons, MSD 6a, headers, double pumper, trans kit, stall, shifter, BFV suspension, 4 disc power brakes, power steering, air conditioned, clean, and driven daily. ![]() "I am a fountain of bad ideas. Never attempt to do anything I suggest, ever." |
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#3 | |
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Drew Pittman
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I should probably mention this isn't a high revving engine. My cam specs say it only makes power to 5800, and I'd say it peaks around 5000. I've been shifting at 5500.
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![]() 351w .040" over, GT40 heads, Comp XE268H (268/280, .510/.512), flat top pistons, MSD 6a, headers, double pumper, trans kit, stall, shifter, BFV suspension, 4 disc power brakes, power steering, air conditioned, clean, and driven daily. ![]() "I am a fountain of bad ideas. Never attempt to do anything I suggest, ever." |
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#4 |
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Senior Member
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as your sig states that your car is driven daily i'd say you need to aim for a compromise as far as gears are concerned.
i'd go from the max speed your car sees regularly on the highway, estimate the highest tolerable rpm and calculate gears from that. a nice addition to my car was the detroit true trac - a worm gear locking diff with a variable locking ratio of up to 70-80%. it's great on the street, but then again i don't know nothing about drag racing. |
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#5 | |
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Senior Member
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Then, you need some type of gears.........again, this depends on what you are willing to spin the motor to on the highway............then buy the gears and traction device....posi/trackLok/Detroit Locker......whatever. Then you can go to the track, put the rear and front tires on, disconnect you front swaybar..............and go out and see what you can do. You may not like hearing this, but with the powersteering and airconditioner breaking into the 12's is going to be a long process, so don't expect to put all the stuff on that I have mentioned and automatically break into the 12's right away................................IMHO |
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#6 | |
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Drew Pittman
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Just buying everything new isn't really going to be an option any time soon though, and I'd like to get back out on the track this season.
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![]() 351w .040" over, GT40 heads, Comp XE268H (268/280, .510/.512), flat top pistons, MSD 6a, headers, double pumper, trans kit, stall, shifter, BFV suspension, 4 disc power brakes, power steering, air conditioned, clean, and driven daily. ![]() "I am a fountain of bad ideas. Never attempt to do anything I suggest, ever." |
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#7 | |
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Senior Member
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#8 | |
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Drew Pittman
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The skinny front tires I kind of understand... Less rolling resistance, right? I'm guessing that must make a bigger difference than I previously thought. What's the line of thinking on pulling the swaybar though? Caltracks are pretty high... Would Lakewood type "slapper bars" be an acceptable substitute or do I need to just save up and not waste the effort with those? Thanks.
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![]() 351w .040" over, GT40 heads, Comp XE268H (268/280, .510/.512), flat top pistons, MSD 6a, headers, double pumper, trans kit, stall, shifter, BFV suspension, 4 disc power brakes, power steering, air conditioned, clean, and driven daily. ![]() "I am a fountain of bad ideas. Never attempt to do anything I suggest, ever." |
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#9 | |
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Senior Member
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Now if you are still having traction problems the next thing would be slicks, and I have no idea how a stock Maverick reacts when you put slicks in place of the street tires.............wheel hop, spring wind up, or ?????? I'm sure if you put the slicks on you would soon find out.....but again keep a lot of data...................then if you need them CalTraks or slapper bars, although you need to set them up correctly..................skinny front tires and lightweight wheels will give you less rotating mass and can improve you times by .1's of seconds...............but for now don't worry about the front tires (if you do go scrounging take a magnet and check to make sure they aluminum.........and the will not have a speed rating like most space saver spares), and as for the removing the end links in the front sway bar this will free up the front suspension and maybe give you alittle more weight transfer...............I did this 40 years ago..........and it did help some. So, like I said, just try one thing at time..............and the first thing is at a minimum, some type of posi/track lok/etc...................then head back to the track to see what you can do..........coming out of the chute easy and then nailing it.................try adjusting the tire pressure.........burn out and no burn out..................and record everything.......................IMHO |
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#10 |
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Drew Pittman
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Sounds like very good advice. I appreciate it.
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![]() 351w .040" over, GT40 heads, Comp XE268H (268/280, .510/.512), flat top pistons, MSD 6a, headers, double pumper, trans kit, stall, shifter, BFV suspension, 4 disc power brakes, power steering, air conditioned, clean, and driven daily. ![]() "I am a fountain of bad ideas. Never attempt to do anything I suggest, ever." |
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