I lke those wheels. Do they have center caps? I also agree W/ Joe Dirt; I wud have a problem w/them bending my control arms. I thought that was only done on the older Ford trucks. I thought u replaced all that stuff in the front sus.?
they wanted to twist the tower to point the control arms towards the rear. i thought this shop was smarter than that. it has gotten impossible to find an alignment shop that is truly old school and knows how to deal with these cars. we plan on doing a shelby drop type mod. we will drill new mounting holes for the upper control arm that move the arm back as far as we can. we will only drop it so the new holes dont touch the the old holes. the shop also said the lower ball joints have play in them. so we are looking into make our own lower control arms. should make some some great pics to post.
The only alignment shops that I know of that are worth it is Baer Frame and Wheel in Glendora and Pruett's Precision Alignment in Redlands.....They both specialize on old Fords. They're kinda far from you guys though. Here's the only info I could find using google: http://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...9-place-will-do-alignment-san-diego-area.html http://www.truelineautocenter.com/
true line is one of the worse shops. they will give you laundry list of repairs you need on a brand new car. ive had several bad experiences with them on customer cars and once on my mav when i just wanted the toe set. do not got true line
I'm pretty certain that 245/45 and 255/40 are about the same diameter, don't know how much difference it would have made but you might be right.
It makes a big difference. The 255/40 is 25.03" ish and the 245/45 is 25.7" ish. Alignment is crucial. I shredded a Brand Spankin New tire in that very spot last year before the car even hit the ground. Really. It was still on jack stands. I was testing fitment. That little corner just ripped the tire open right down to the steel wires. Luckily Discount Tire replaced it under road hazard. You should be able to get this to work with a little more backspacing but unless you are using spacers now, changing tires is likely your cheaper option. First thing I would try though is going with a little less caster. Drive it and then see what you think. I have a set pair TCP Shelby Drop Pivot Shafts if you want them. I'll make you a deal. Also have the TCP Shelby template if you want that.
Hey Chris, it's interesting, me and you been eyeballing the same stuff. Bryant and I are goig to do some work on the caster. The alignment shop said there wasn't going to be too much of a difference by increasing caster. But I think if I move the bolt points back it will help. I'm interested in the drop brackets, would my stock UCA be able to bolt into it? I have the wheels off for now, definitely don't want to shred them. Sorry to hear yours got mused up, glad discount tire came through. I'll learn from your mistake, gonna put it up in the air and make sure the tire is totally clear all around. I'm not using any wheel spacers. I do have more room for some backspacing but I feel like the relocation of the UCA will solve my problem, and if not that then I will cut up the valence.
Yes. I have the Coil Over Conversions setup. I decided to cut my shock towers this year and wanted to cut them as low as possible, so I purchased the straight shafts and jig and drilled out the holes for the shelby drop.
so had some trouble with the front wheels, it was really rubbing a lot on the lower valence I started cutting this area, tried a hand saw....umm no! then used the electric one, sweet! put a piece of tape down, then marked a 1/2" line in front of it, cut that area and bent the metal back made some smaller cuts so I can bend the curved metal back looks decent
