At least one of the three (the gold one) Ford Drag Team Maverick Pro Stockers ran a 351c engine at one point.
Somewhere I have more Ford "Green Book" that shows are the parts by number that are interchangeable....................and yes it is surprising. Mock-up looks great, can't wait to see how the headers fit after you get everything moved. Not sure what the BS is on your 3.5"...............and not really sure what mine are, but I could have gotten 2.25" or 1.75"BS. I know mine just barely clear the disc brake calipers. I think most racers back then used Wilwood and the calipers are a lot bigger than my Aerospace.
Made a little headway today on that tail light panel. Everything welded in and ground down, won't take more than a skim coat to finish it off. Did some measuring on the lower control arm mounting area today. There is no way to move the hole more than an inch and a half or so, maybe 2" at the extreme tops. Wonder if they simply cut the spot welds, trimmed the upright portion back (where the stock engine mount bolts to the frame), and moved the entire mount out on the frame rail where is is spot welded to the botom of the rail. Looks more realistic than drilling holes at the very edge of the lower a-frame mounting area. Thanks, SPark
In pictures I have seen of earlier A/FX cars, like the Comets, the lower mounts were relocated outboard and had extra gussets welded to them for strength. Before you decide on a mounting position, you might want to check some standard drag link lengths. Most of the unibody Fords used the same control arms and spindles, but had different drag links to make up the difference in length. If you could find an off-the-shelf drag link that was close to what you are looking to end up with, and then work backwards from there. For example, a '70 Maverick has a tread width of 55.5", a '66-'69 Fairlane has a front tread width of 58", '67-'70 Mustang is 58.5", '71-'73 Mustang is 61.5", Granada is 59".
Thanks for the thoughts. May need to go that way. Spent some time measuring the engine mount/lower control arm mount area, not much room to move the lower mount hole. Seriously thinking of moving the entire lower mount outword to match the amount the upper is moved. Cut the upright area back, move the whole mess out and re-weld. May be the best answer. Not much room in there stock. Wanted to fit everything before I started moving things around so I had some references. The shifter 3/4 rod hits the tranny tunnel hard, will take some serious work to make it clear everything. Shifter position is good. To you guys running a Cleveland without moving the towers, you have my respect. Plenty of room front to back but side to side is zero. Keep the ideas coming. Will be a couple weeks before I actually cut the towers. Going to shift to the rearend for a bit and work on the F100 unibody since some nice parts showed up for it. Thanks, SPark
Yup, had the same problem as the 70 had it's own unique trans mount - not for a V8 or a floor mounted shifter so I built my own cross member - I tossed my shifter rod kit that came with my V-Gate and am using aluminum shifter rods and heim ends from Speedway Motors LOL - welcome to the club Thanks, SPark[/QUOTE]
Huh, good to know. Will they re-certify it if youve trimmed a little here and there around the perimeter to clear various things?
Don't know what they will do. I've ben told they wll re-certify a bell but I haven't done it. That's what I was told by another person when shopping for a bell. SPark
Just a question regarding the picture you posted showing the R tower in an empty engine bay.......................what is the distance from the frame rail to the first bolt on the motor mount..............also from the frame rail to the second bolt?
Thanks for the dimensions. I haven't got my car up in the air in the front but was just thinking that my front wheels which are 3.5"x15" with 28.5 diameter front runners......................if the front suspension was brought out 3" it would put the outside of the tire right at the edge of the fender.............and I think the fender would actually have to be rolled a little or maybe the lip cut off. Just not sure how you could kind of tunnel the section where the suspension attaches and move it 3" out.................I just need to look at mine tomorrow but I don't think it would be too difficult as long as it was reinforced well. Just thinking out loud..........................................................and if you reinforced it I'm sure you could do the Shelby drop and get a better angle on the ball joints.....................maybe.
