it ran fine then i turn it of and came out next moring it wont start things i have done. wires plugs coil cap dis rechecked timeing ( turn engine to tdc took plug one out and cap off and lined them up) pour gas down carb still nothing it will spit fuel out the carb every now and then you can hear it trying to start but wont even start for a sec. spark is good fuel is good well main becuse im pouring it in and air is there im todly stuped only thing im starting to think is its the timeing chain and it jumped timeing but is it did that why would every thing still line up.
Sorry I did not answer your question in my first post so here it is. The reason that everything will still be lined up is because there are 2 types of timing in your engine. There is Static timing that is the relationship between the crankshaft and camshaft. This is controlled by the timing chain and gears. The second is ignition timing, this is controlled by the distributer. So if the timing chain jumped a tooth on the cam gear then the static timing would be off, this will move the ignition timing will be off a bit but if you are not looking for it you may miss it. I stand by my first thought, the timing chain gear on the camshaft is made out of aluminum with a fiber coating on the gears. The fiber coating gets old and cracks, eventually they will start to come off a bit at a time. Then one day they will just strip off and skip a tooth. Not only will you have an engine that will not start you have an oil pan full of plastic fiber pieces that will try to clog up the oil pump pickup. Check the timing chain slack and if it is over 10 degrees then I would suspect it has jumped a tooth or 2. To do this you need to turn the engine over till you get it to TDC. pull the distributer cap off and then turn the engine backwards until you see the rotor just move. Then look at the harmonic balancer to see how far the crank moved before it turned the rotor. Anything over 6 to 10 degrees is bad. Hope this helps, at least it will give you something else to look at.
car still not runing i think it less then 6 dgrees movment not 100% tho and the engine does not seem to start at all i hear tho but it going around and around its geting fuel it geting spark i did a compresstion test all cly are over 110 i have realainded the the 1 cyl and the dist like 100 times made sure i was working off the compresstion stroke i am so lost right now
What motor, how do you know it is getting spark ? how far does spark jump and what color is spark, did you gap the plugs, set the points, replaces condenser, battery fully charged.
a little late but I would have found out why it wouldn't crank before I did this... "things i have done. wires plugs coil cap dis rechecked timeing" if it was running before...none of this was wrong...
Well to be honest I did not do all that stuff my buddy did it's his car sent it to me to fix he had the points messed up plugs wrong and coil wired wrong I fixed all that points are gaped right but it should be close we though timeing because I read timeing skips alot on these most I know is it's a 6 cly engine that won't fire up. Spark gap is 40 Saprk test light is dim but there Spark on plug is a small white light don't seem very strong compair to Chev 350 spark or lawns mowed spark
Precisely, what engine make, size and year are we discussing? I would think the spark plugs gaps should be around 34 What is your point gap or dwell setting?
Here is something to try. First with the ignition on check the current to the coil. Then while turning over the motor check it again. Something we use to do back in the day is: Run a wire from + post on the battery to + post on the coil. If the car start then you have a problem some place in the ignition. Also if the motor does start like this don't run it for to long. this will fry the points if you run it for a long period of time.
True but new plugs will often fire better at .040 than old ones with less gap... Even a points system should fire new plugs at .040, if not the ign system is kaput... Still gap should be corrected...
It's a 6 cly 3.3 engine I trued the plugs at a lesser gap sapark was the same I have not tryed the +post to + post thing yet still have to put the engine back together after I make sure the cam did not jump so any info on that would be help ful right now and I love all the info I'm getting it rlly does help me work though this better I'll drop the gap down and if some one can tell me how to do points right I'd be glad to try it I'm a new age tech so I was not thought very much about these