200 Rebuild

Discussion in 'General Maverick/Comet' started by kboldin, Jul 28, 2013.

  1. Paul Masson

    Paul Masson MCCI Atlantic Canada Rep

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    Wow! That's looking really nice, Kevin! I hope mine looks ar pretty when I get to that stage!!
     
  2. kboldin

    kboldin Alain De Cadenet Has My Job!

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    :tiphat: Thank you sir! :tiphat:
     
  3. kboldin

    kboldin Alain De Cadenet Has My Job!

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    Made some more progress today, got the flanges cleaned up and installed all of the studs minus the timing cover studs (that’s next). Used a dab of anti-seize on each one and popped them in. Pretty fun job!!

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    And, if anybody has any interest, I got the kits from the below company. They didn't sell the timing cover and water pump kits on there site for the 200, so I had them make me up a set. Easy folks to work with, turn around was quick to, good vendor.
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  4. tody

    tody Member

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    nice! how much did the stud kit cost you?
     
  5. kboldin

    kboldin Alain De Cadenet Has My Job!

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    Just under $60.US including shipping. I did'nt think that was to bad and the quality appears really good. They all have a allen/hex key at the head for easy install and adjustment once the parts in place. I'm happy!
     
  6. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    will you be able to remove the pan/covers with the engine installed in the car?
     
  7. kboldin

    kboldin Alain De Cadenet Has My Job!

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    That’s a good point, it may make servicing the oil pan later down the road more difficult but that job is a PITA (IMHO) anyway. It’ll be another step pulling studs or lifting the engine a few inches for clearance.

    In one respect it may the job easier too, locating the oil pan gasket upside down on your back with sealant wasn’t much fun either. So it’s kind of this or that :huh:

    All the rest should be the same, timing cover, oil pump and valve cover.
     
  8. kboldin

    kboldin Alain De Cadenet Has My Job!

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    So quick update, been busy on multiple fronts and sort of distracted with little projects and a deadline for April (Fabulous Fords Forever Show).

    Sourced a pan, dip stick, dipstick tube and pick up. I just started on the pan this morning, currently stripping it (many thanks goes out to doncomfort!) and the team of strippers doing their magical dance.

    Finished the dip stick and installed a makeshift dipstick cap seal. Also been busy on the consolette and ordering parts for the suspension rebuild. That and last week a rear wheel cylinder went out. I replaced the driver’s side just to get up and running but I have the parts for the passenger side and all new brake hoses. Oh and replaced the master cylinder just for good measure. Lots of irons in the fire! My goal is to get the suspension done in time for the show, it would be nice to drive up with all the work done!

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  9. kboldin

    kboldin Alain De Cadenet Has My Job!

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    Wow….it’s been almost two years…

    Long story short, life happens and my build plans have changed for this engine. At some point I may circle back around to building the engine I want but this engine needs to come together sooner rather later. My little daily driver six (the one in the car now) is sounding more and more like a box of rocks so I’m going ahead and finishing this one as soon as I can.

    I found another donor engine on CL, the only reason I bought it was the rocker assembly looked new and the price was irresistible at only $60 bucks. What I found was, like new (all of the following) rocker assembly, lifters, stock cam, oil pump, fuel pump, pistons (60 over, which I won’t be using) and another good crank at 10 and 10 on the mains and rods .Scavenging like new parts from $60 donor is awesome but it’s left me with a few questions.

    My original build plan was using solid lifters with an adjustable rocker and performance cam. Can I still use that cam with hydraulic lifters? I’m 99% certain you can’t use a hydraulic cam with solid lifters because of the ramps (lobs) are too aggressive but I’m not certain the other way around. Thought I would check!

    Second question, there is brass type plug fitting on the back of the crankshaft on the engine I’m using, I believe it’s used for a manual transmission set up (I believe its P#-7600 on the diagram below) , on two other engines I’ve disassembled (both automatics) I’ve not seen this plug. Will it make any difference leaving it in? And, If I have to remove it, how does it come out, is there a special tool?

    Third question, in the exploded view there is an additional washer found on the outside of the oil slinger on the crank, it goes, oil slinger, washer, harmonic balancer. I’ve torn down at least three 200’s and I’ve not found the elusive “washer”. Does anybody have one? If so, what are the dimensions, OD/ID and thickness? http://www.1bad6t.com/Maverick/repair/diagrams/untitled033.gif (P#-6700)

    Thanks!

    kb
     
  10. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    The plug is the pilot bearing for manual trans snout & yes it has to come out or the torque converter won't fit into back of crank...

    Easiest way to remove is hydraulic pressure... Pack the bearing FULL of grease and use a rod or clutch aligning tool that just fits into bearing to compress the grease(add more grease if tool goes in too far), smack it with a hammer, bearing will pop out...
     
  11. kboldin

    kboldin Alain De Cadenet Has My Job!

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    Thanks! I'll give it a try!
     
  12. Bryant

    Bryant forgot more than learned

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    hey Kevin, if the grease trick doesnt work (and it usually does) i have a slide hammer with a puller attachment you can borrow that will pull it out.
    i honestly dont know if you can run hydraulic lifters on a cam made for solid lifters. at first thought, i would think you could. the lifter to cam contact surface is the same as far as i know. this sounds like a question for a cam manufacture to give you a definite answer. i could ask greg at total performance for you if you like. at this point it sounds like you may be doing your brake in drive to the knotts show!!!
     
  13. rthomas771

    rthomas771 Member

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    I've used slice bread instead of grease before. It works the same as grease and its easier to cleanup after.
    I also had to drill/chisel/slide hammer out stubborn pilot bearings
     
  14. Bryant

    Bryant forgot more than learned

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    ive heard of using soap chips also. just any thing you can push in and then hydraulic the pilot bushing out.
     
  15. kboldin

    kboldin Alain De Cadenet Has My Job!

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    I think I need to take a step back and re-evaluate the new build plan, I remembered last night I actually have a set of adjustable rockers. They need to go to the machine shop and get resurfaced but otherwise are serviceable. All I really need at this point is a set of solid lifters, the correct pushrods and get my head to the machine shop. Really need to slow down and think through the next few bits so I don’t make a mistake. I think this week I’ll gather up a bunch of parts I’m not using and get them listed, the like new rocker assembly, two sets of pushrods etc… I’ll have to go through the garage, I may have other parts I forgot about! Need to raise a little cash, the taxman and home improvements have killed my play money!

    Would love for the Mav to make it to Fabulous Fords but I don’t think it’s in the cards this year, the oldest and I are planning on going up for the day but the Mav is likely staying home, 2016 for sure though, maybe I’ll have the engine in and that back bumper fixed by then! (btw, thanks for the tool offer, I’ll let you know!)
     
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