Deals are great but extra costs can get away from you real quick on used parts. Plan on full disassembly/cleaning and possibly guide and valve job seat touch up. If you really want to make them sing add a 5 angle valve job while the machine shop has them.
As for the Edelbrock heads he has said that they have been hot tanked and magged. I am definitely expecting to have to put more money into them to achieve better and efficient performance so besides having them milled down a little I was going to have new springs installed because I have read that the Edelbrock stock springs aren't always the best. Also, i was going to look into getting a valve job on them but was leaning towards a 3 angle, would 5 angles do that much a difference with these heads, is it not to excessive? As for the trick flow heads, I was going to have to call trick flow to verify which heads they were. They are an older casting 5878841 is the number i was given, 185cc intakes 64cc chamber and 2.02'" intake and 1.6" exhaust this is all the information I know at this time. They also come with a matching set of trick flow roller rockers.
just a quick update the heads are currently at the machine shop and are getting new springs, valves, as well as a 3- angle valve job. Also just got the flywheel today and dampener. The rotating assembly will be brought to the machine shop when I am home to get balanced and while I'm at it I will have them install new cam bearings because I do not feel comfortable with the ones in there. Before i do bring this assembly to the machinist do you guys think i should replace the rod bolts with arp for this setup?
Definitely if they're stock rods. And make sure the pistons you have will clear 2.02 valves and the cam specs it's going to run. If the machine shop has a Serdi machine to do the valve seats by all means do so.
Junk the rods and buy better ones that already come with larger diameter fasteners. Once you put aftermarket bolts in the stock rods they will likely go out of spec once torqued to higher clamp loads and will need resizing. Puny OEM parts rebuilding is rarely worth the time and money with all the sbf parts availability these days.
Talked to my machinist and he agreed in looming into new rods and I ran past the question about clearances and he said it should be fine since these pistons have relatively large valve relifs but will have to get cam bearing fixed then mock it up to see what we are looking like. Is there a way to measure mathematically without mocking it up?
I did a set of stock rods in an assembled factory reman roller 5.0 several years ago, changed the bolts one by one. Beat on that motor for a year and a half, daily even several 7500 rpm freeway blasts. In the end the rods held up fine, the block split a wall in #4. The stock rods are better than what they're given credit for. It's the bolts that were the weak link. If you can afford better rods, do so, but on a budget the stockers with ARP's are fine.
Quick question I have got the rotating assembly installed but I am at a cross road. I could either use a mechanical or a electric fuel pump. I have the original timing cover and my question is if I use a electric fuel pump can I bolt up the one piece ecentric withought the dowel pin going through it and only going through the timing gear? Also can I still use my timing cover thanks!!
The one piece eccentric has the dowel pin that protrudes through the gear and eccentric. The two piece eccentric has a tab on the eccentric that fits into the dowel hole on the timing gear. The timing sets are different depending on if you have a one or two piece eccentric. I have always attached the eccentric no matter what, just in case I want to switch back to mechanical, but that is just my 2 cents.
The timing cover I have already had a block off plate I was able to get the right dowel pin and installed the eccentric. I am thinking of just sticking with a mechanical fuel pump.
Quick question if I am able to use 1.7 roller rockers in my application are there any major downfalls? I am trying to get this thing to breath as best as possible I will be using the Weiand stealth intake with a 650 carb. The compression I calculated was 9.5:1 but correct me if I’m wrong with my milled heads to 54cc. Trying to reach my goals still and slowly getting together also I am thinking of using an electric water pump to save some small amounts of hp!
