302 small block hooker headers rebuild exhaust help

Discussion in 'Maverick/Comet Projects' started by PerformanceMav, Nov 11, 2018.

  1. PerformanceMav

    PerformanceMav Member

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    Hello,

    I am new to this forum, but I am asking for some help. I just rebuilt a 302 small block and put it in my 73 Maverick. All I need now is an exhaust system. I have the hooker headers and a c4 trans. Is there any good options out there that are relatively cheap (college students have a tight budget). Can I buy one from someone?
     
  2. mojo

    mojo "Everett"- Senior Citizen Supporting Member

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    If you already have Hooker headers, what are you looking for in the way of options? What are you looking to buy; don't understand the question?
     
  3. PerformanceMav

    PerformanceMav Member

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    Sorry for not being very specific. I have the long hooker headers, but no other exhaust parts are attached to them. I need the rest of the exhaust system. I read some forum posts about exhaust systems that come in a kit. I also saw a specific post where someone was selling their exhaust system right out if their maverick. I hope this builds clarity and thank you for your response.
     
  4. jbrich

    jbrich Johnny

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    Hi, I used the stainless 'U-FIT' kit from Flowmaster.
    It was almost easy.
     
  5. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    may not be in his budget...cheap (college students have a tight budget)
     
  6. groberts101

    groberts101 Member

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    Summit sells header back kits for early mustangs and in universal configs. If you can't cut and weld plan on taking it to a muffler shop. Around 200-225 diy or maybe 400 or so if they do it for you. If you don't need mandrel bent piping that come in those kits then have the shop custom crimp bend everything up. Probably cheapest route.

    Your headers are already on the large side for a stock or mild 289 so keep the rest of the system on the smaller side to regain some low speed torque. 2 1/4" piping with 2 1/2" mufflers will flow more than enough for that little motor.
     
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2018
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  7. mojo

    mojo "Everett"- Senior Citizen Supporting Member

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    If you not somewhat accomplished in cutting and welding; I agree w/ the prior post-- take to muffler shop. Stainless , expensive, harder to work with -- can't afford to experiment on tight budget. So, we count stainless out.
    Constructing exhaust from scratch in itself, is an art form to get done correctly. If you have the fore-mentioned skills then go for it -- If not muffler shop. When all is said and done, probably less expensive and frustrating..
     
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  8. brooks

    brooks Member

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    Has anyone tried these HDS-FMC64-260 shorty style headers from Amazon yet? I have a 70, manual steering, getting ready to do V8 swap. Really dont want to fool with long tube if there is a shorty that will fit without having to mod. Any help is appreciated.
     
  9. groberts101

    groberts101 Member

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    These cars are tighter than most when it comes to universal fit exhaust. Many guys around here have used the Hedman 88400 without issue.
     
  10. brooks

    brooks Member

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    That's good to know. I like the newer style flange on them better than the old style flat flange too. Thanks a lot for the info! We probably will go with them then if they have been used with success by many others. Just hope I ain't the one they don't work for. Lol. Thanks again.
     
  11. mojo

    mojo "Everett"- Senior Citizen Supporting Member

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    I installed Hedman Shorty 880 series on my C4, floor shift Comet early this spring. I was able to get them in w/o lifting engine whatsoever. They slide right in on the drivers side and only had to loosen and swing away the idler arm on the pass side, slide right in from the bottom - both sides. I had AC and PS hoses to work around, otherwise easy install.
    I do believe I have a slight rub on the Pitman arm, on tight left turn -- not really an issue. I don't want to ding the nice ceramic coating to put a slight dent --- otherwise would recommend that Hedman series.
     
  12. brooks

    brooks Member

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    Thanks. Good info too. Its my sons car we are working on. Right now we are working on a 8.8 explorer rear for it. have it shortened, welded, and painted. Will start on the bearings and clutch pack swap later this week. We have the short block built now. Its a 95 roller block. Just honed and new bearings. Has a lunati 220 duration 512 lift cam. I have 1 head ported and need to get the other one done and we can finish it and check it off. Right now its a column shift, but I have a factory floor shifter rebuilt ready to go in. It has bench seat with the black and white plaid inserts. ( I love it, he hates it. Lol) I have a set of 72 buckets to go in it but they need redoing. The passengers side brackets are pretty rough so I will have to wait until I find another pair (if). I already had the Granada spindles from my old 74, we will put on it when we install the rear end. I have the wildwood mustang, manual, disc/disc, high volume, 7/8 piston master cylinder with adjustable proportion valve to install at the same time. His is a factory a/c car so we want to retain that. He likes the fat skinny 70s look. I am still studying wheel sizing. I know the fronts will be 15x6. The rear are what I'm still studying on. Right now I'm leaning to the 15x9s with a 3 1/2 backspacing. I don't want to run spacers. That should give me plenty of room on the leaf and inner fenders and fill the wheel well without hanging out side the quarter. Don't mind rolling lip a little if needed. I like the look of the black primer, gloss black grabber, and the two blue ones in the parade in your gallery. That's the look he wants. So I know that's a lot of info but I also know it helps to know what road your on so you can get to where your going.
     
  13. brooks

    brooks Member

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    Oh. Every year we go to Bowling Green to the Holley Hot Rod Reunion in June, NMRA usually last week of Oct, and Fall Nostalgia usually 2nd weekend in Oct. He wants to take it next year for those. Not to drag race. Just to put in the show. There is usually at least 1 in the car show there. So if any of you are not busy any of those dates next year, it would be good to meet up with you there. I know there was a meet this year same weekend as the fall nostalgia in Somerset Ky some of you attended. We wanted to come to it too but I figured the weather might keep some away so we didn't try.
     
  14. Hotrock

    Hotrock MCCI Member Supporting Member

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    To run that back spacing I'm assuming your 8.8 diff. is longer than the 8 inch you removed?

    I'm not convinced that 15x9 inch wheel will fit without rubbing the inner fender. I run an 8 x 15 inch wheel with 255/60 tire (stock 8 inch diff) with 4.25 back spacing. Some site members run a 275 tire and 8 inch wheel with .25 inch more back spacing than I (4.5 inch is maximum back spacing for these cars with a stock diff). I do not know if the 275 guys have rolled their inner fenders. My inner fenders are not rolled and I am maxed out for tire inner fender clearance.

    The back spacing I've mentioned is irrelevant, it is the maximum wheel and tire size that will fit between our cars stock location springs and inner wheel lip that is of consequence.

    Best of luck with your father/son project!
     
  15. brooks

    brooks Member

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    No I shortened the drivers side tube and used passengers side axle to center the pinion. If i remember right, its like 1/2 wider than stock. I have a 74 Ive had for 30 years but its in pieces. The wheels i had on it were 14x8s with 3.5 back spacing and 235 60 14s. They occasionaly rubbed the inner fender with people in the back seat so thats why I figured stick with 3.5. With 3.5 back spacing, that should move the rim farther out away from the inner fender and closer to the outer lip by 1/4 inch. 4.5 backspacing should move it closer to leaf and inner fender. Correct? Or am I looking at it wrong? Is there differences in the wheel wells between 70 and 74s?
     

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