Has anyone asked what kind of coin are we talking here? IF you are serious, do the front half for $2500-3000 and your options are endless. Like someone mentioned earlier, a BB is a viable option. The money you spend on the front end can be offset by the money you save on a mild pump gas 460. I have a SCJ that I bought to go that route years ago but time passed and you know how it goes. With a 347, you save the front end cost which you can put into a DART block and then you have the base for as far as you want to go and still know that there is a large selection of external parts that will fit.
Do a 408w with decent internals and at least a 200 runner head . it will make good reliable power. The one in my car has probably a couple thousand runs on the block and crank so far. And I spin mine 7-7500
AFR205. Guys were saying the heads were too small for a 427"; and they probably are, but to an extent the valve timing events can be manipulated to work with the small runners and still make excellent power. That place has their own program for the AFR's and the owner of the company says that they're probably one of the better heads for the money. They do some Brodix stuff too but they mentioned that you can put a lot of money into them and they're about even, performance-wise, with the AFR stuff which ends up a little cheaper on the price point. I am told, though, that Brodix has a new SBF head developed that might be worth looking into if you haven't bought heads yet.
Started the engine swap process, taking 302w out and swapping in a 351w. We are taking out the shock towers and putting new coil overs, upper A arms and forward struts. We have a stock front end. Any suggestions and advice would awesome
They come right out of the box fully CNC ported, chambers included. They flat work. They come with decent valvetrain, although the springs are not always great. They can be ordered without springs and then you can put your own on, or if you order from someone like Craft or Ed Curtis or Woody at fordstrokers, they'll set them up for you, for your application-springs and all. I've really taken a liking to Craft in the past few years. The AFR205's are popular. They're flowed on a 4.060" bore fixture, where most of the other competitors are flowed on a 4.125" fixture, so the numbers are more inflated. Also, to get a set of CNC victor Jr's, you're looking at a few hundred more, and get a little better valves with the AFR's (AFR has gone to 8mm valve stems, everyone else is still 11/32")-and they flow better and most importantly the 8mm stems are lighter. That lets you run a little bit less spring pressure, which is less parasitic loss and better RPM capability. TFS has some really nice offerings, the 205cc 11R's are a nice set of heads, but will need spring upgrade. And, aside from the hi-ports, they'll also need their own pistons, or fly cut your current pistons for any appreciable valve timing events. Yes there are guys who purposely "adjust" the cam selection so that no flycutting is required, but IMO, this is a poor practice which is good for one thing: reducing the potential for HP and torque. Hi-ports are awesome heads, but they're also expensive; you can put $3000 into a set real quick-and that's with stainless valves. Add another $1000-$1400 for titanium valves. I'll tell you this: The AFR165's (I think 170cc now) are a great head for a street-driven small cubic inch SBF, say 302". I've had a set of them and with the right camshaft, was HIGHLY impressed with it. And those that know me will tell you that it takes a lot to impress me. They compared, at that time, with the Performer RPM heads, which had heavier 11/32" valves, needed a spring upgrade ($$$) and didn't flow nearly as well (they're not CNC'd where the AFR's are) out of the box. Sure, you can port the RPM's but then you'll put another $1000 into the port job, and by time it's said and done, you could have put less money into the AFR's and come out better in the end. TFS twisted wedge stuff flat works, but again the TW odd valve angles require piston mods in a lot of cases, which adds cost to the build. Then there's Canfield-which can be ported to work quite well. Brodix. Craft has a good program for the Brodix heads. I think Kuntz does too. Remember years ago, nobody had any decent heads for SBF? Now, there's so many offerings that it's hard to choose from. 25 years ago we would've never dreamed of this happening.
Woody built my motor and at the time (2008) we had a discussion about which heads to use at that time he recommended to me the Trick Flow fast as cast 190, I dont know if it was a just my goals for the motor or just a preference at the time I could have gone with the AFRs or Canfields but headers were and issue with the Canfields. Woody sent the heads to TEA for valves and springs and a little port work I have no complaints about them but most people seem to go with AFRs I just wonder what the difference would be if I had of went the AFR route, as with most things you read on the internet some people swear by one kind and others think it is crap
Here you go, a set of TFS High Ports worked by Ron at Fox Lake https://cleveland.craigslist.org/pts/d/ford-tfs-street-heat-high/6168299659.html
Those are some hogs!!!!!!!! It would be impossible to get a set of headers that would fit those heads between the stock shock towers of our cars. Also, you better have some big displacement.
As I understand it, he is removing the towers. I may be wrong, but I think the TFS high ports start out at 240 CC on the intakes, so yes, displacement is important.
Gotta watch the hi-ports, they're similar to the Yates C302/C3/D3 stuff in that there are some different versions floating around. There were a lot of different versions floating around. Some were even cast iron. Some were small ports, some were 250+cc, others were middle of the road. I've seen some that were "home ported" and ruined. I've seen some that were supposed to be real mild, and turned into a race-only big inch high compression nitrous style engine specific cylinder head. So buying them, IMO, unless you know what they were done for originally, it may be money ahead to get them new, for your setup. They are good heads but they need to be for YOUR engine and not someone elses, just like a camshaft. That's where the higher-end guys like Ed Curtis, Fox Lake, TEA, Jim Woods, Craft, Kuntz, etc come in.
