And also, with H beam rods, don't the bottom of the cylinder walls have to be notched and I "heard" that it can cause the piston skirts to to slap around and break sometimes. please do correct me if im wrong or even part wrong.
That would put me looking at these: Pistons-https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-51404110/overview/make/ford Rods- https://www.summitracing.com/parts/esp-5400s3d/overview/make/ford Supercharger- https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wnd-77-174fsb-1/overview/make/ford As for the power range I was wanting to hit mid to high 10s , attempting to keep it away from having to get the nhra license with is 9.99 or 135mph
The cylinders get notched to clear the rod bolts. Some H-beams with cap screws clear without notching. All I-beam rods that I've seen require notching. You don't know until you put it together and check it out.
Good luck with your goals, make sure you get SFI approved stuff because once you get into under 10 secs its a whole different game. Do you want to build this your self or have it built ? If you are going to have it built you might want to look into having Woody (Jim) at Fordstrokers.com set you up or at least take a look at the site. I highly recommend him but the down side is it takes a little while for one to be built http://www.fordstrokers.com/
Always loved that quote in your sig! Sorry to threadjack, but it may help the OP here anyways, can you list that cams full spec's? Preferably everything off the cam card(IO/IC/EO/EC) so I can compare to a few cams I have my eye on? Or maybe snap a pic and post it? I know.. getting kinda needy here. Probably still have to go custom with my particular motors custom heads and induction system but was curious where yours ended up on that combo. PS. nice solid times with decent 60's! So glad our cars are lighter than most and we don't have to work so hard. lol
Good general advice but he has a Dart SHP block, which IIRC, already has some notching done to it to accept typical 347 rotating combos. Not sure which eagle rods his kit has in it but many ibeam designs come with capscrews similar to the H beams. Even my cheaper Scat rods have capscrew designs and many mfgrs offer both designs as you move up the $$$/power ladder.
See my last post above in regards to notching. As for the Piston slapping around as it protrudes below the bottom of the cylinder?.. that depends greatly on the pistons skirt design(ie: short box type vs longer OEM type skirt). Generally speaking the very short pin height pistons used in stroker motors already comes with a shorter skirt length. Every piston design(and each mfgr) gas specifically located a designated measure point(called its "gauge point") to figure for proper piston to bore clearances. One of THE biggest considerations is to make ABSOLUTELY SURE that the gauge point does NOT land on or pop out of the bottom of the bore. This will cause greater piston rock and the cast iron bores edges(bore ends MUST be beveled/radiused at both skirt contact areas) will scuff and/or tear up the much softer aluminum pistons skirt in short order. Starts as light piston skirt scuffing(elongated scratches), typically during cold starts when clearances are greatest(part of the reason why you should NEVER RPM a cold motor), and gets progressively worse or even leads to failure. At that point the bores will be similarly scratched up from all that captured piston debri. Another nasty caveat of higher skirt protrusion lengths is increased piston rock which unseats the rings and makes it tougher for the rings to control blowby and oil/gas contamination of the chamber and crankcase. That then leads to higher detonation potential, fuel washed bores, and fuel contaminated oil which spirals twords a dead end road, to say the least. PS. not to get you all worried about your kits final fitment and potential failure as many Eagle based kits are standard fare for those Dart blocks. Just things to consider when you or the engine builder are fitting things up, is all. Trying to educate you to make better educated decisions for yourself through this build. PSPS. remember when it comes to your hard earned cash investments... DTA!.. DTA.. DTA! Don't trust anyone! At least not fully and completely. There have been MANY piston failures in these types of stroker motors because the builder doesn't verify the gauge point location before final bolt up. Mocking/dry fitting parts is the best way to confirm everything will play nice together but very few people want to spend the extra cash to do it and most shop builders just don't take or have the time to do mock ups.
All the Eagle I beams have cap screws now. I went through this last year looking for a replacement rod for my 331.
I agree the AFR’s are great heads for all around cost vs efficiency. I wish I ran the 185/195’s back during my build but I ended up cheating a little our and went with the Edelbrock performer rpm alum heads with 2.02 valves on my 347 build. Jesus it’s been about 10yrs since the resto so bare with me while I remember....I’m only saying that cause it’s been a hard 10yrs street and track and she’s still running like a bat outta hell. So my build was on a budget and my suggestions will be geared towards “cheaper” hp if there is such a thing. So for roller rockers I went with Harland sharp? Sp. 1.6 ratio I believe Edelbrock hardened one piece push rods. Edelbrock performer rpm air gap intake Holley 750cfm vacuum sec. with spring changes - many people think off the shelf is dialed in, its not. Gm hei 1 wire distributor from Doug thorley - but best bang for buck was getting the dist dialed in at a race shop with them setting advance etc it’s beautiful. I think Doug thorley ceramic headers but you can choose any 3/8” flange at least ARP studs throughout Edelbrock high flow 110gph fuel pump with 3/8” fuel line all way back to tank. You’d be surprised how many people try to build over 500hp with a original fuel line choking it down Windage tray and main girdle are where it’s at on the bottom end. 7qt rear sump oil pan if you’re drag racing primarily otherwise dry sump I suppose Balance everything! Everything! Blueprint it. Sfi balance the harmonic balancer get rated, flywheel/flexplate, etc it’s easier down the road if you track some decent numbers lol. Screw in head studs not push in Copper head gaskets My performer rpm heads with 2.02 intake valves were cleaned up and polished and with their 60cc and my -14cc dishes forged probe pistons I wound up at 9.5:1 after gasket thickness etc. after originally having flat top. With the gm hei 1 wire dist it throws 70k volts without an msd box and I’ve never had one on it. I have performer rpm cam again for their “package” but I spoke with designer of lunatis voodoo cams originally and if I had to do it again I’d def go with his cam. Nothing left on the table with his designs and cheap for a set Aluminum top end obviously. Aluminum victor water pump but you can go electric. I run serpentine conversion belt with proform electric fan and gm 1 wire polished alternator 100amps. I have the stock block bored .030 over notched correctly, but a coast high performance 347 stroker kit with 5.315 rods and longer piston skirts instead of what? 5.4? Anyway it doesn’t slap or burn oil dipping into ring lands like the old days. Moly rings filed personally for nitrous gap but most it’s life been NA. There’s a million other things I could throw out there but this was just my way as a first time race engine build. It’s not hard to build 425-500hp on a 347 if you choose right and have $$$ then you focus on transmission, stall, rearend, chassis load etc. hope something helped cause I just 2 finger typed this junk on sons ipad lol Any questions just ask. Take care
High 10's should be easy peazy with a roots setup. Just beware that belt driven setups, while easier to configure and tune, can be very problematic when it comes to belt retention. Run a smaller pulley and you start slipping the belt and tossing them on ocassion. The couple guys I know running them on street cars have had enough issues with tossing belts that they've gone to custom belt tensioner setups. One uses a GM setup with custom spring tension. Not sure what pulley ratios they're using though, so may have a lot to do with those issues. Also might want to check with trick flow on those 4032 alloy pistons compatibility with boost. Keep boost lower, in the 5-7 psi range and you may be ok so long as you keep the tuneup tip-top. Get too power greedy.. or something goes wrong with the tune.. and 4032 isn't nearly as forgiving as 2618 alloy would be. Plenty of fast cars running 4032.. just pointing out that the safety margin for burndown and torched/broken ring lands is less than the other alloys.
When it comes to the supercharger (if I go that route) would either have to be a roots style, or like the old school Paxton supercharger setup. Im trying to keep more old school and I personally love the sound of a roots style blower.
Driven in many fast cars and there's a huge driving difference between a centrifugal and roots. Outright power from start to finish with a roots setup but harder on chassis/drivetrain parts. Other is basically a crank driven turbo and power swells up/peaks in similar fashion. Roots is the way to go for outright reliability and consistency but pre-cal tuning is MUCH more critical since cylinder pressure rises so quickly. Centrifugal pre-tunes are more leanient since you work your tune to reach higher rpm before things can suddenly go sideways on you. And with extra thought on the build.. considering the need to get diffetent pistons anyways.. I seriously can't see using a more rigid 4032 alloy over a much more flexible and forgiving 2618 alloy in a blown motor. 2618 is like buying safety margin. Not sure if it was mentioned.. is that blocks bore already final honed for that specific rotating kit? Need to consider and reassess the ripple affects of changing a kit. If new pistons are much lighter, and the racier 2618 stuff generally is, will need to be rebalanced. Remember what I said early on.. this stuff can quickly snowball right over you. Then you end up with a car full of 4 years worth of dust. Ask me how I know this!
Sadly as of yesterday I learned that I am being let go at work so, priorities first. Car is getting pushed back into the shed for the time being. As for the setup, no block work or anything has been done at this point.
Sorry to hear that. Pack everything up nice and tight so it's ready again when you are. Good luck with everything!
