man guys i need to replace the bearings and now i gotta figure out exactly what i need. i have an eagle crank. with i beam rods and SRP pistons. im still trying to figure out exactly what i have. Would it be a good idea to go with the h serious to be on the safe side? It did look like the bearing that came out of the motor were skinnier than the standard bearings i have for another engine with is just basic 302. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ESP-B16003EA030/ this seems to be the kit that i have
You can get h bearings to be safe, they are better anyways. If you want to try to save some money then you can get 2 P bearings ($10) and try them on 2 rods on the same journal and see if the bind up when torqued down. Seeing how Brainsboy said he has never tried P bearings in his last post is probably why he never experienced the problem I had with the P bearings binding up. Id say get the H bearings and be done with it.
76MAV77: The first thing you need to do is find out which bearings you have to begin with, because the kits can have chevy or ford bearings sizes. When you take your motor apart look closely at the bearings. they are going to have a part number on them. Post the part number here and we can help you more. Again the bearings are the least of your problems right now. We need to find out why your burning oil as 347's are known for issues with the oil rings. Your going to have to determine if the oil burning is really from the valve seals or the rings.
Sounds like he is doing new rings anyways, along with the bearings and valve seals. Check your pistons for cracks. Make sure you order the right size rings, they aren't the same as a standard 302. nothing at an auto parts store was right. Luckily Total Seals warehouse is here in Phoenix so I called them up and they had a set. The only ones they had in my sizes was a Moly set, $200+.
with the rings i looked up my pistons and used the measurements from there to look up rings. Im going with sealed power moly file fit rings.
Are you reading off the bearing or the inprint on the rods? Im asking because it looks like a Federal Mogul part number, but their part numbers are reversed as 2131-C-8-STD, which is a stock ford bearnig size
Federal Mogul bearings, I have never seen these before but they are listed for a 6 cylinder 173CI and isuzu rodeo's. They are F/M's A series bearings.
the odd thing is when i type that part number in at autozone it come up sealed powered bearings. thats the only place i can get that part number to find something. Im not sure if theyll actually work though. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...hByPartNumber=true&itemIdentifier=245393_0_0_
Bolt that bad boy down! If you are using a stock block then get a stud girdle and a windage tray. If nothing else get ARP stud bolts to hold your main caps. This is just small insurance to help keep everything where it suppost to be. This is like the old Fram commercial "Pay me now or pay me later" Best to pay now. As always just my .02 Bossmav
If anyone of you are building a motor that is going to be raced............you need to get the right tools or find someone you trust that does. Using plastigauge is.............I'm sorry................just dim! You need to to measure the thickness of the bearing, then put the bearings in the rod, torque the rod bolts and mearsure the inside dimension wit a bore gauge.................and at 90 degrees to the parting line of the bearing...................again, if you don't have one find one, or someone you would trust with your life to measure them for you, the same with cylinder bore, your pistons, and main bearings and if you can't measure your rod and crank throws.........how do you know exactly how much clearance you have..............with plastigauge...........did you know that plastigauge can be 1/2 thou off and when you are spinning that motor above 6500rpm I wouldn't want my clearances that far off...................Sorry, I didn't mean to get carried away here, but come on guys.........DIRTFT! Do the measuring and then give the bearing manufacture a call and get the right bearing size or have them match your dimensions (assuming they are correct) to the correct bearing...................parts numbers change and different manufactures use different bearings on their cranks and rods. My C.A.T. H beam rods for my flathead use a Buick V8 rod bearing!
OK, now you guys got me so worked up about using plastigauge and looking at part numbers I totally forgot what I was going to say......getting old sure is the pits! The difference between the P and H bearings are; The P bearings eccentricity is up to 0.0015" The H bearings eccentricity is up to .00010" As for the high crush on the P and H...............they are the same. The OS chamfers do not exist on the P but do on the H. Both the P and H have an overlay on the bearing surface. The P has a flash coating and the H does not. The H has a reduce wall tolerence compared to the P. I am surprised nobody talked about the V, C, or M series of rod and main bearings. Selecting bearings for a motor is a lot like selecting a clearance for the rods, mains, or even pistons and rings in your motor.............it just comes from past experience......................and the bearing manufactures have had..........well.............just a little. So give them a call and talk with one of their tech people and ask them which is the best for your application. Personally, I would rather go with a soft bearing(for my race only motor) rather than hard because if something goes through the motor I would rather replace bearings than a $1000/2000 billet crank...............or worse. It's kind of like using and AcuSump...................how many of you that drag race use them??????? IMHO
