351 Windsor Swap

my expensive snap on timing light does the same thing on msd equiped cars. i find i have to put the pick up as close to the distributor cap as possible. doesnt make logical sence to me but it works. also if the pick up is too close to the alternator it will screw with the timing light when reved up. another option is to put the pick up on the plug wire that is 180 degrees out from #1. #6 i think. this will get the pick up far away from the alt and still use the same timing marks.

 

For the bolt can you drill through the frame from the outside and put a long bolt through the frame with the nut on the inside by the header? It will really help hold that bracket in place.

If its a new Accel distributor it is more than likely good. I was thinking it was a reman from a parts store. But if you have a dwell meter it should have instructions on how to hook it up. may not be much use on that kind of distributor though. Feel the breaker plate that the electronic pickup bolts to and see if its real loose. it should pivot around when the vacuum advance pulles it but sometimes they are too loose and cause the dwell or timing to bounce around.

from Accels description of the dist. "The heart of these distributors is their performance 12 V breakerless 6.5 amp dwell-control module'" I'd check with their tech line on a way to test this and make sure it is within spec.

 

Maybe these expensive guns are too sensitive... My Cheapo gun from Autozone has always worked fine with my MSD ignition.

 

I ran the bolt from the outboard to inboard(nut inboard) on the P/S ram bracket. If you're very tight but the bracket will fit, cut a hole in the bracket the size of the outside diameter of the nut and recess it in the bracket to weld it in almost flush. That will still allow more holding threads for the bracket/nut and provide the bracing to keep the bracket from twisting off the frame rail. I also welded 2 solid beads across the frame rail for good measure and haven't had any problems yet. (it did break off before I welded it)

 

Interesting you should say that. I am using a Snap-On digital timing light, and for what it's worth, when I put it in tach mode, it goes nuts.

Maybe. It's tight. There's almost not room for a nut, which is why I was thinking about tapping threads in the bracket.

Actually it's a used Accel distributor. Ebay. It would be a bit out of my budget new... I will check that plate for play though. Worst case I may go get a parts store reman Duraspark. I don't think my RPM range really calls for anything fancier than that anyway, right?

Shouldn't matter since I'm not actually using that module. I have the pickup wired straight to the MSD.

 

You shouldn't NEED a fancy distributor. I had bad luck running a duraspark box straight to MSD box. I picked up alot of power when i put in the MSD distributor. Not sure why. the MSD dist. is pretty basic with just a magnetic pickup like a duraspark dist. but that swap alone got me a couple tenths at the track.

I wonder if it would help to run the dist. through the control module in the dist. and the MSD box. On the Gm cars with the HEI dist. they still run the stanard control module in the dist. and tap it into the msd box to add the multiple spark ability but the control module controls the dwell.

 

I have used durasparks direct with an MSD for ever with no problems..... I have also changed from a duraspark to an MSD dist and had no change in performance.....

If using a duraspark dist you need to set the air gap as tight as possible and properly curve it for your application.....

 

Maybe mine was curved wrong. It ran fine but just didn't have the performance i got when I put the MSD in. I played around with the weights and springs on the Duraspark but maybe I didn't put enough time into it.

 

Done, and the oil pressure looks perfect. Kids, don't use grades of oil that didn't exist when your engine was designed, mkay? Especially not a type that's even thinner than usual. Specially packaged for Walmart should've been my first clue. :16suspect

Done. And it turns out I really don't need blocks for brake clearance. Just need them if I don't want to have to take the axle off the springs just to change the pads. I think I have enough exhaust clearance now, and the height on the back still looks good.

Still just two bolts, but they are welded into the frame, and so is the bracket. I'll be pretty impressed if this breaks. (Well no actually I'll be pretty annoyed, but I really don't think it's going to fail.)

I was too late to get to the Monarch, but I'm glad. Instead I got '95 Mustang springs, and they fit great. I only had to cut about half a coil, and the height ended up about where I had it before I put the AC in. Between the new springs and the new shocks I think it ought to be a big improvement.

And this is where I'm at... I took apart the distributor and I can't find anything that feels loose. Nothing obviously looks amiss; it looks practically new inside. Since my timing light can't be trusted I moved it up and down and tried the throttle. Each time it just started misfiring all over the place when I gave it some revs, with the occasional pop through the carb no matter where I turned it. One or two fireballs too, love those... And of course at once point that coil wire got me again. I started drooling and it left a strange metallic taste in my mouth. Great stuff. By the time I got to that point it was getting late, past time for dinner and I'd run the battery down anyway, so I'll start again tomorrow. Will get a new coil wire first thing, then if that doesn't help I may have to get a distributor.

Other than that it's ready to drive.

 

Sounds like a plug wire is on wrong or an intake valve is not closing. Are you using the 351/302 h.o order or the standard 302. I have used the standard instead of h.o before,did just like you are describing.

 

Maybe some goofball put a 302 cam in the 351? Wasn't it some redneck mud bog truck. They may have just used what was paying around.

 

It used to be that the only cams you could get for a 351W were made for 302s. That may be what your problem is.

 

Nah, I know for sure the firing order is right. Got to be something else. I'm going to take care of the coil wire now to rule that out, then it's Duraspark time if I don't get results.

 

Alright.

It was the coil wire. Soon as I crimped a new end on it, the timing light started acting right. Seems to run best at 12* initial, 34* total, with the vac advance disconnected. It still occasionally coughs through the carb if I stab the throttle, but that might be a carb adjustment. Anyway it's running good enough for a drive, so that's what I'm gonna do now...

 

Eh, something still ain't right. It drives great, but I have to ease into the throttle else the firing falls apart. I may yet have to change the distributor, but this is nothing that will prevent me from driving it to work this week. I wish I had a spare, or could borrow a distributor to confirm the problem, but anyway I'll figure it out. Feels good to be driving it again!