Installed a reman Duraspark with new cap, rotor, etc. Got it timed, same results. Now it's getting late. So I changed out the last ignition component I haven't touched today. Grabbed an old junk yard Bosch coil and slapped it on there, just to say I tried. Cranked it up and the idle was higher. Stabbed the gas and instead of spitting and choking, I got something new. A blood curdling, primal, rage filled roar that I have never heard this side of a drag strip. It was effin' spiritual. But now it's 8:00. Time to give the boy a bath, go through the bed time rituals, and by the time all that's done it will be at least 9:00 if I'm lucky. That might be enough time, but I have laundry to wash and other things to get done. Somehow I doubt I will get to drive the car before morning. I think it will be a good ride when I do though.
I just wish I'd tried the coil sooner, but it was brand new! Too bad Autozone won't do returns on electrical parts, 'cause I wasted money on that distributor.
Waiting until morning is utterly killing me. Hearing that awesome sound then having to shut it off and come inside... Wrong, just wrong!
Hmm, makes me wonder. My Mav is having a similar problem. I assumed it was a fuel delivery issue. If sending some seafoam and fresh gas through it along with cleaning the filter doesn't work, I'm swapping coils.
Well it's running a lot better, but it's still not right. Still coughing sometimes. I'm wondering if I should try a third coil or start looking somewhere besides the ignition system. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, distributor... All are new. The MSD box is the same one I've been running for years. The coil is a random old Bosch. It runs better than the new Accel one did, and that's what is making me think I ought to try another one, but now I wonder if it's really going to fix it. It kinda acts like it might have a huge vacuum leak, so maybe the carb is just not set up right. I haven't done anything to the carb since I ran it on the 302 other than adjust the pump, idle mix and idle air. Would the fuel/air requirements of this engine be so drastically different that it would cause it to run this poorly? Edit: Well I say it's like a vacuum leak, but in a way it's not. It doesn't clear up at WOT. Maybe it's running lean...
First of all, There is no corporate policy for Autozone to not take back electrical parts. I used to be a store manager for them, and O'reilly's and the former Checker,Schucks, Kragen stores. It is an adopted policy by the store workers and soter managers to discourage the many returns we get from people trying things with no idea if ti will fix the car or not and bringing it back. I remember vividly at a mangers meeting one of the higher ups repying to a question from the managers about electrical returns. "Show me the policy saying we don't do returns on electrical parts, why wouldn't we?" He was insistent that making the customer happy and taking the part back will keep this customer for future purchases, not taking the part back will lose him forever. Clean the distributor up real nice so its less work for the store to do and see if they will take it back. if they won't ask to see their return policy saying that the part is not returnable and ask for the store manager or district manager if neccessary.
Here's an idea, take off the filter housing and grab a can of carb cleaner. rev the engine by hand to the point that it pops and sputters like you described. the do it again while misting some carb cleaner in the carb. If it runs better then you are too lean. Was that NEW accel coil meant to be used with an external resistor? If it was an internal resistor coil and you were using the stock resistor wire on the car then youd be reducing the voltage too much. maybe that old bosch coil was an external resistor coil and it ran better but you still have a problem elsewhere.
Not using the stock wire; coil is wired straight to the MSD box. MSD's docs say not to use a resistor. I think I'm going to try swapping the carb. I have a vacuum secondary Holley that came with the engine. I doubt it's perfectly tuned either, but I did hear it run with that carb on it, and if anything it was rich. If that cures it, then I'll run that carb while I get some new jets and power valves to try on my 600 DP.
Still driving it around, went home for lunch... In neutral or park it will rev to the moon with no fuss, but under any kind of a load it's backfiring randomly. Possibly through the carb too but what I'm hearing in the car is exhaust. I keep going back and forth in my mind between ignition and carb. Went and bought some 3/8" rubber fuel line so I can try out that other carb tonight. I'll be happy if that fixes it but I'm not counting on it since my carb ran great on the 302. This is weird.
Ive never personally dealt with a power valve but if it idels fine and has this issue under cruise and acceleration then it could be a power valve. pretty cheap and easy to try. This engine dosn't have adjustable rocker arms does it?............... Just went back and saw that it does. Did you adjust the rocker arms after you got it fired up? The rockers could be too tight and under higher rpm the could be hanging the valve open and when the timing advances it pops. When we did my borhter motor we preset the rockers whenwe assembled it by setting each valve to TDC and setting the rocker arm. Once we got it fired it was good for a few minutes and then started to pop under load. I think once the lifters got pumped back up and pressurized it was opening the valves too early because of too much load on the rocker arms. I went around and adjusted the rockers while it was running and it took care of it. Some of the rockers were way too tight.