Also I only have a 3 month window starting the end of december to do something because my wife is due christmas day with our first child. And I figured while she is on maternity leave I would just use her car.
just do what dave did just slap it in there nothing special , get it running and do mods from there congrats on the new kid on the way
the 8 inch is plenty strong for auto, everyday driving but make sure you have an 8inch and not a 7.5 the 7.5 has a cover like the 8.8 in the new mustangs, t-birds and such the 8 inch looks similar to the 9 inch
If you can get the motor and tranny for 250 thats not a bad start. Just remember it may be a hassle and alot of work to put the cleveland in. 3 months is plenty of time and the other thing is you will pri have to fabricate some stuff to get it to work along with a custom driveshaft which could cost a good amount of cash. On the other hand finding parts for the 200 rebuild may be difficult Im not sure tho, but rebuilding an engine can become costly. Best of luck and congrats on the baby!-Andrew
well thanx guys, I think I might pass on this motor then because I dont have the money to buy it and let it sit around in wait, And I dont have the money to be gettin another rear end, disc brakes, driveshaft and anything else! But don't get me wrong everybody, I will be accepting donations if you feel so led to!!! haha
I was going to post on the whole daily driver thing... You kinda beat me to it. I wouldn't recommend such a 'robust' undertaking on your daily driver. Even with 3 months of evenings to work on it, you will be pulling your hair out and way over budget with this project. I just "slapped" my 351c in, but it wasn't my daily driver, and I had ALL of the needed parts either in the garage or on the car. It had a good tranny and rear in the car as the 302 that had come out was MUCH stronger than the stock Cleveland that went back in. I highly recommend anyone that loves the C to try this swap, but not on a budget or daily driver situation. Dave
Another thread recently hooked me up with www.chiheads.com , Aluminum C heads from down under. They have current stuff going on for the C because they used the engine down there far longer than we did here. Even their 302s were not Windsors, so there were far more made.
When I refered to the exhaust, that was what I meant... Get in the bowl, then raise the port as much as possible out to the header, widen only enough to take out the transitions, smooth the bottom from the valve only far enough and deep enough to clean it without lowering the port further. On your comment: You would get into the intake bowl? I did a set, but sorta instinctively stayed out of the intake side. It's so big, I didn't want to possibly make it worse... No pro here, I just did what seemed common sense. Biggest thing they say is not to work the exhaust port on the bottom. Raise it much as possible... Dave
Absolutely. I don't rework the outer port itself but I work the bowl and the port transition to the bowl. Think of the bowl area and the valve in similar terms to the intake plenum and runners. Plenty of power to be made there. You are correct about the exhaust port floor. Don't touch it. In fact.....there's nothing to do there. Exhaust port flow is dead in the lower third of the runner. It really is a dead zone. That is why MPG markets the port plates. They keep the flow from stalling in that area and that raises the exhaust velocity. Same thing with the intake runner. Lower third of the port is relatively dead. Work the roof of the intake runner if you use the port plates.
Check out the purty intake! The Holley 300-13 used to be the most aggressive C intake... I don't know about that anymore after seeing this one.
It's from Australia http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-351-Cleveland-4V-TFC-Aussie-Intake-manifold-351C_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ36474QQihZ018QQitemZ280049511534QQrdZ1
