70 Maverick Project

Really I would think that the full console would be in more demand.... I just put a new lock on it when I replaced my trunk lock....

I didn't see any screws on the inside when I looked, will have to look again and will have to check the outside also...

Thanks for the info

 

They never made a full console for a Maverick or Comet, the consolette you have is worth a couple hundred dollars in a good market if not it is great trading stock, it would be worth more if it had a working clock

 

there wasn't a clock in it that I could see, that is some interesting info thanks

 

If you look near the front of the consolette closer to under the dash portion you will notice two little tabs that stick down one on each side. Those are the screw holes, the ones inside you will just have to look for. Yeah in good condition you are looking at $250ish for it if it is the clock version. Yours is the block off plate version so it is worth less than the clock version and it is a 70 model which is specific to that year so that kinda hurts the value also but they are still pretty hard to find. .

 

ok thanks

 

Thanks for the help got it out yesterday morning before work

 

Ok here is an update on my project, got all the carpet and padding out removed most of the sound deadening material and took a wire wheel to the floor pan to clean up the rust (See pics) and trying to find the spot welds so I know how much of the floor pan I need to get to replace the rusted through parts...
Drivers side:
Front


Rear


Passenger side:
Rear

 

The floor looks fairly good. Only the second picture looks truly punky where section needs replacement. Of course, you can see things there that the pics may not show. In other areas try to stab through the rust with a screwdriver etc. If it survives being poked hard without puncturing it, consider just treating it with Ospho rust converter and/or Rust Bullet.

 

Yes behind the driver's seat is the worst and needs to be replaced, any ideas on where the spot weld should be so I can drill them out?
I think I found 1 or 2 but know there are more just can't see them and it looks like the seam goes over the trans hump, will this whole section have to come out? This is the first time I have tried or done any work like this so not quite sure what or where exactly to look for

 

I made my own patch and just replaced the rusty areas on mine. The majority of my pans were still solid. Don't worry about going all the way to the seams, just cut the pan back to solid metal. I made my own patches.
At first, I didn't cut far enough at first and welding to pitted metal just meant it was too easy to blow through it with the welder. Getting back out to full strength metal made a big difference.

BTW, the repairs on my car were the first welding I had ever done. A quote from Car Craft .... "if you can fog a mirror, you can MIG weld". Almost true . Study YouTube and a little coaching from experienced friends goes a long way too.

Git 'er done .....

 

yes I am definitely gonna try, I got a flux core MiG welder from harbor freight and going to get a Flanger And Hole Punch Combination Tool from Eastwood, as soon as I can get it on level ground with some cement under it instead of dirt like where I have it now I will start making panels from some extra fenders and the old hood I will be taking off....

 

Did you use the whole mustang floor pan or just cut sections out?
And yes one of the members to this site makes Maverick floor pans from what I read, I joined his fb page to see just haven't sent him a message yet since I'm not quite ready to start on it

 

If your using flux core and 30 thousand wire will more-than-likely give you a lot of burn-thru on thin sheet metal.
I have never had any satisifactory results using flux on thin sheet metal.