71 Fe Maverick

Average User Rating:
5/5,
Ownership Satus:
Currently own it
Year:
1971
Engine:
Other 8 cylinder
Color:
Will be Burgundy
  1. mn67

    mn67 Member

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    Vehicle:
    1971 Maverick
  2. groberts101

    groberts101 Member Supporting Member

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    Vehicle:
    1971 Comet GT
    I love FE motors! I'm assuming that you'll eventually show us pictures of chopped towers or MII suspension conversion to squeeze that thing in there all the way.

    Which FE? What year? Can you post more details?
     
  3. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    1972 Comet GT clone 306 . 1969 Fairlane Cobra 428CJ 1988 T-Bird awaiting 331 ..
    Yep whatchya got??

    I'm another FE-er, owned at least one since approx this time in April 1969 when I bought complete drivetrain from a wrecked 390 Galaxie that found a home in my 289 Galaxie Fastback... That wasn't first, a few month prior I'd owned a couple different 352 but those quickly fell out of favor...
     
  4. RMiller

    RMiller My name is Rick

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    1971 Maverick Grabber
    That's a purdy engine! I have a friend with a 64 Galaxie, 390 4 speed, I too am a fan of the FE.

    I didn't exist in April 69, I was still cooking!:beerchug:
     
  5. Crazy Larry

    Crazy Larry Member

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    Vehicle:
    '73 Maverick 2-door, 302, manual trans
    Looks great. Does it fit? What's the C.I. ?
     
  6. Maverick Dude

    Maverick Dude Member

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    Location:
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    Vehicle:
    1973 Maverick Two Door 302 C4 LDO
    Looking at the surface rust in the engine compartment and areas to be covered with sheet metal, what would you body shop experts recommend here. Would you take it down to bare metal or use a product such as Rust Bullet or POR. ( I edited this note so we're not talking about the exterior panels. )

    For MN67, what colour is that on the engine? It's certainly original.

    :wow:

    MD
     
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2017
  7. groberts101

    groberts101 Member Supporting Member

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    Looks like old failed primer to me. Rust bullet or miracle primers won't completely save you unless you remove some of the failed coatings to begin with. Just encapsulates the damaged coatings and decreases longevity of the new coatings.

    PS. I'd seriously think about leveling that ignition coil out and using some form of rubber isolator/vibration damper against the head and preferably around the coil itself(like some OEM setups used). Otherwise the oil level will uncover the windings at an angle and aeration levels from excessive vibration will cause it to overheat and lose energy. I'd also be looking at an aftermarket higher voltage output unit with higher winding count too. More spark energy never hurts.. but too little always hurts power and efficiency. Even truer as compression ratio and cylinder pressure goes up.
     
  8. mn67

    mn67 Member

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    The entire car will be taken down to bare metal. The engine block paint is a VHT semi-gloss black. Every thing else on the engine is as cast aluminum.
     
  9. mn67

    mn67 Member

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    The coil will be mounted in the engine bay just there for the test stand. It is a an aftermarket Blaster 2 msd coil.
     
    groberts101 likes this.
  10. mn67

    mn67 Member

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    It started life as a 360 mirror 105 block. Here are some of the specs. I built the motor and then sourced the car.

    Mirror 105 D4TE FE 4.08 bore 10.15 deck height
    4.25 Scat crank
    Auto-tec pistons
    Scat I beam rods
    Survival "FElony" heads street/strip ported 2.2 intake 1.68 ex (valves by Rob @ blue oval)
    Cam Comp. hyd/roller 235/241 @.050, 291/303 adv, .610/583 lift with 1.76 rocker. 108 LSA on 104 ICL
    Carter fuel pump 120gph m6905
    Jay’s water pump adapters
    CVR Water pump CVS8000CL
    BT 4V intake
    Quick Fuel HR-780
    Cloyes true roller timing set
    Melling M57HV oil pump ¼ drive shaft from POP
    Powerbond SS Balancer
    Canton road race t-pan
    Lifters –Howards
    Harland sharp rockers
    Mallory unilte distributor
     
  11. mn67

    mn67 Member

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    I will be cutting the towers. Converting from power to manual brakes, doing the shelby drop, relocating the spring perches, and if I feel real ambitious installing and aussie stearing box on the outside of the frame (will require adding length to the centerlink). I will certainly post pics as I go along.
     
  12. mn67

    mn67 Member

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    It is a 445 stroker. It does not currently fit but it will with a little shock tower surgery.
     
  13. groberts101

    groberts101 Member Supporting Member

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    dayyyuuummmm!.. me just turned bright green! Awesome combo! :clap:
     
  14. mn67

    mn67 Member

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    Thanks, it was a lot of fun to do. I had not built an FE for a long time and a friend had one in a maverick in the 80's so with the new heads and stroker parts available I figured it was time to do another one.
     
  15. mojo

    mojo "Everett"- Senior Citizen Supporting Member

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    Are you planning to do any frame strenghting/bracing to handle the torque from that power/torque increase?
     

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