72 Maverick Redo

Discussion in 'Maverick/Comet Projects' started by gator25, Feb 10, 2022.

  1. gator25

    gator25 aka No No my name is Nolan

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    Going to use this thread to document or to keep up with the parts replaced, items repaired or upgrades. This is what I have done so far.
    1) Replaced the Mallory dist. With a DUI dist. along with the coil. and spark plug wires.
    2) Repaired the wires going to the regulator, battery pos. cable running from the trunk and rerouted it.
    3) Repaired the hole in the inner fender where the battery sat before being relocated to the trunk.
    4) Removed the rotten fuel tank and mounted a fuel cell out of a ski boat in the trunk.
    5) Cleaned and rebuilt the Holley carb. along with fabbing up a new line from the fuel pump.
    6) Built and installed the export brace and Monty-Corlo bar.
    7) Built and installed the belly bar.
    8) Rewired the ignition with a toggle switch, circuit breaker and relay. It gets everything the charging system has to offer.
    9) Replaced the vacuum modulator and adjusted. Replaceded and rerouted the vacuum line going to it.
    10) Removed, repaired, then epoxy primed the front fenders, rock guard and repaired core support. Cleaned and repaired the lower fire wall.
    11) Relocated the shifter to the floor after removing it from a 67 Cougar.
    12) Replaced the steering wheel with an old Grant I had off a Chevy truck and ordered a new button and install kit.
    13) Fixed the headlights and blinkers.
    14) Replaced all the marker lights and bezels after repairing the ones that were inoperable.
    15) Soldered up the hole in the radiator and installed a reservoir.
    16) Fabbed an accelerator bracket and put it on.
    17) Installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge and temp gauge.
    18) Installed a choke cable for the carb. and built a bracket to mount it.
    19) Built and installed a steering cylinder drop bracket.
    20) Installed some universal traction bars.
    21) Replaced the missing front sway bar end links.
    22) Cut out and repaired the driver's floor pan.
    23) Changed transmission fluid and filter. Adjusted the bands.
    Next will be the heater core that came in a couple of days ago. Still need to pull the chunk out and do something with it.
    New rear leave springs, shackles, front coil springs, front and rear shocks, coil spring isolators are ordered. Rear springs should be here tomorrow. Front a arm drop template got here day after the heater core.
     
  2. gator25

    gator25 aka No No my name is Nolan

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    Last edited: Feb 10, 2022
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  3. yellow75

    yellow75 MCCI Oregon State Rep Supporting Member

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    That is a stout looking export brace, sounds like you are having fun fabricating stuff and general upkeep. Keep up the good work
     
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  4. CopiousGull77

    CopiousGull77 Member

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    You've been busy ! Gotta love rust repair...mine was a complete Flintstones mobile. Nice work ! Looks good !
     
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  5. gator25

    gator25 aka No No my name is Nolan

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    Yes sir, lol I don't think it's going anywhere. When I pull the motor the towers will get modified. I like what Gull77 is doing with his, I'll follow suit as well.
     
  6. gator25

    gator25 aka No No my name is Nolan

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    Thank you for the kind words, I know what you mean, I've been down that rabbit hole a few times myself.
    Thank you both for your response.
     
  7. rickyracer

    rickyracer Member

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    When you do the shock towers, I'd do the Shelby drop. But be careful. Your exhaust pipe clearance will take a hit. Are you notching them or completely removing rusted out ones? Sand blasting will be your friend. And a little bling and powder coating is always nice.
     

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  8. gator25

    gator25 aka No No my name is Nolan

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    I plan on notching the shock towers and gaining a little room along with stiffing up the chassis. The rear leaf springs, shackles, U bolts and rear shocks are here. Still need to decide on spring perches, the coil springs are ordered. I opted to get springs 30% stiffer rating then the OEM. IIRC close to 400 lbs. Hopefully the sub frame connectors will get here before long. The major rust areas I've found so far are the rear floor pans that aren't there anymore and the rear panel from below right tail light to the right rear corner of the trunk opening, above the tail light. The whole panel needs to be removed and rebuilt or replaced I'd imagine. The shock towers will happen when it's time to put the other motor in, which isn't even out yet. I have a couple other projects going on while I'm tinkering with Maverick. The more I do the more I see what needs to be done and it'll get there eventually. I haven't had the time it takes to really make it the way I want it to be done so I'll pay for it later when I finally do. You have some really nice rides, clean and uncluttered. I've been needing to get the sand pot and hoses squared away, this will make it happen.
    Any advice you or anyone else has is welcomed, I'm still learning the dos and don'ts on these things.
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2022
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  9. gator25

    gator25 aka No No my name is Nolan

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    https://photos.app.goo.gl/DDNoJsfMqXQx64bF6

    On the way back from my mother's yesterday, I went to start slowing down for the first of the two stop signs and the car dies. I initially thought she was starving for gas, but after pulling the filter and seeing plenty was making it the carb. I pulled the cleaner and found that it was flooded. I got her cleared up enough to idle without dieing and made it back home. Today I pulled the front bowl off and she was pretty clean. I finally found a little trash on the float valve. You can see it in the link above if interested. Went ahead and changed the power valve I'd meaning to do and the spring in secondary diaphragm while I was at it. Everything is just about spot on but the secondary spring too stiff, coming in a little late and might need to go up little more on the squirter or change the cam at the accelerator pump. Might end up going to another Holley with mechanical secondaries before it's over with.
     
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  10. rickyracer

    rickyracer Member

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    I would just go to a 650 DP. Don't take much for the needle valve to flood the carb. Notching the towers is the way to go. Makes getting at bolts and spark plugs so much nicer. Not great, but better.
     

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  11. gator25

    gator25 aka No No my name is Nolan

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    Yes sir, I've got couple dbl pumpers that would work well on her. I've always been partial to those. Thank you for the photos.
     
  12. CopiousGull77

    CopiousGull77 Member

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    Looks good ! Glad to hear it's worth the effort. Gonna weld mine in tomorrow. What you think bout putting that stock piece in ? Take up to much room probably or... Open for opinions.
     

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  13. rickyracer

    rickyracer Member

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    To close to the exhaust system.
     
  14. xpsnake

    xpsnake Bruce

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    There's a lot more distance to be gained there if you want it.
     

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  15. mojo

    mojo "Everett"- Senior Citizen Supporting Member

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    First ones I've seen w/ angles at the corners. Nice.
     
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