A little insight help folks...

Discussion in 'General Maverick/Comet' started by skipsgrabber, Jan 25, 2018.

  1. skipsgrabber

    skipsgrabber Should've had wrenches instead of hands

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    1972 maverick grabber,1979 F-150 4x4,1957 Studebaker Silver Hawk,1942 Ford Coupe,a boat,39 JD "H",And a bunch of JD garden tractors
    Would like to pick your brains a little if I may... Couple questions,(1)I rebuilt the front suspension on the 72,all new components,upper ball joints,upper control arm pivots,lower control arms complete,new moog springs,spring perches,drag link,tie rods,everything new... Two alignments later it drives pretty good,but not like a new car... Every shop says that it needs longer bolts and shims to get it "perfect"on camber... Springs settled and I see with a level that its pretty much dead nuts on,and drives pretty good... Why would it need longer bolts? Do they just not want to deal with the headers? They're not that bad to change,and none have even tried... But a concrete bridge line,ruts the big trucks make in the road or any line or crack in the road,gives you a "pucker factor"...

    (2) Rear axle "dances" over bumps,washboard cracks or any divit in the road... New shocks all four corners,the rear spring bushings are all there,same with shackle bushings,not new but not gone... Had my friend get in and do reverse drive,then bow up on it both ways,no unnecessary movement,no obvious broken springs ect... I fear the long expanse of weather checking for fear that it'll come completely around,because it primarily dances to the right side... Nearly been offroad a few times... 70 mph is unimaginable,any bump at that speed will nearly make it lose control...

    (3)Engine vibration at 18-2500 rpm... pretty much everything under the hood new save short block... Trans is giving trouble,my bud is convinced that's the cause,not sure myself... Trans still works ,but after driving to a dr's visit,grocery store and 20mi back home starts slipping... I have an AOD (All Outta Drive! :rofl:),but I'm collecting some parts before I tackle it and the C4 (military explosive!:rofl:) is still moving,as it's my only mode of transportation at the moment... Harmonic balancer appears good,but no matter what,this engine has never been smooth,but it's getting to be bad,has already shaken the inside of the temp gauge to pieces,and at about 50-55mph will put your hands to sleep,so i drive slowly only when absolutely necessary...

    Any ideas? Thanks in advance!.. Skip:bowdown:
     
  2. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    If you have a original short block & the common 50oz AOD flexplate, that's source of vibration...

    Yes to get a reasonable amount of positive caster, the upper control arms need to be shimmed outward approx ¼" at front... What are specs the shop used/gave you??
     
  3. skipsgrabber

    skipsgrabber Should've had wrenches instead of hands

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    They didn’t give any... Either time... The short block is 91 mustang/thunderchicken 5.0 HO,164 tooth 50 oz. flexplate,balancer is the same...
     
  4. skipsgrabber

    skipsgrabber Should've had wrenches instead of hands

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    Well,got some of it figured out... Transmission was the source of vibration... Think the rear bushings are worn out,theres still rubber there but it seems "squishy"...
     
  5. CaptainComet

    CaptainComet Large Member

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    If the trans mount was subjected to leaking oil or trans fluid, the rubber will deteriorate over time. That settling changes the driveshaft angle, and it doesn't take much to give a vibration.
    If the rear bushing in the trans is bad, that can give a shake as well. You shouldn't be able to wiggle the trans yolk on the driveshaft up and down. If that is worn, you will especially notice it at higher speeds. Mine started doing that. Probably need a new yolk and bushing to fix mine.
     
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