They sell a version that has intake/ekhaust ports just big enough to get a cutting tool in there. This will allow the porter to configure the ports the way he sees fit. They are the baddest SBF head that I have seen and, from what I have read, you should really use them on a motor with a 4 1/8" bore (like yours is going to be).
Carolina Dragway posted a pic of my car on their site...can't say I care much for them coloring the " Plum Crazy" out...they did it to alot of cars...don't know why?
compression Once you get past around 14.5:1, the gains become very minimal. For instance (I know, it's chevy but same principle) a friends sprint motors, they make around 900 HP NA with about 15:1 compression. We did one up a while back that made 919 HP, but with 16.8 compression. About the only thing that the jump in compression did was beat the rod bearings out, albeit very quickly. After the dyno thrash, it was time for bearings. The top halves were pretty much hammered. Bottoms were fine. There was no signs of detonation, both with the knock sensor that the dyno operator uses nor by looking at the plugs/piston tops. I'll just stick with my unported Victor Jrs and under 12:1 compression. It'll live a long(er) life that way, make decent power, and is really quite a bit less $$$ to maintain/duplicate. In fact, I have an exact duplicate going together as we speak as a spare engine, well, almost exact. This one has a 4340 crank & zero balance compared to the cast crank/ext balance that is in the car right now. Costed me the same $$$ for the 4340/neutral..found some good deals on a enigne parts website. Scored the crank & JE pistons for less than $500 brand new in their boxes. If I only had an unlimited budget.....
Rick, What Size Rear Wheels And Tires Are You Running? And What Is The Lenght Of Your Rear End From End To End?
Sheeeeeeeit, you got a helluva deal on that Todd. My pockets aren't that deep either, we are doing this a year ahead of plans, if not for that carb screw it would be another year before freshen up time. We both know what kind of abuse these motors take in bracket racing and while I want the car to be a little faster I'm more concerned with consistency and reliability, increasing the bore and lift will probably play as much a role in the increase in HP than the domed pistons. I just like to see the look on peoples faces when you tell them...."It's just a little ole Ford small block" :evilsmile
Wayne the tires are M/T 32x14's on 15" rims...I'll be working on the car tomorrow and I'll get the flange to flange measurements for ya.
rip/photo that's pretty strange. i wonder why they did that. i'm going to their banquet on 1/06 and i'll find out. they have never done me that way
thanks rick,I'll be looking for your reply. I like the way they look and I'm sure they perform well, I want to duplicate that on one of my cars for racing.
Wayne it's 36 inches from flange to flange, rim is 14 inches wide with 4 inches of backspacing, overall tire width is 17 inches and it clears the frame rails by 2 inches and the wheel well by one 1 inch.
thanks Rick, I knew there was one other question,is your chunk offset or centered? and do you have 4 link or ladder bars? sorry so many questions.
Wayne it's centered and it's a 4 link...here's a pic...and yeah it's dirty...half a season of grime on it...I've started deep cleaning the car but the underside will be last.
