That's what the shop said to me as well (not enough adjustment to get to those specs). I crawled under the rig and looked at the lower control arms. Sure enough, they are pivoting toward the front of the car. Almost looks like it's ruining/crushing the rubber bushings (that attach to arms to the chassis) having them that far forward. You can definitely see the nuts on the adjustment rods are tightened about 1/4 more in (fresh threads exposed). It might handle better, but straining the lower arms and toasting the valance can't be too good. Maybe I'll try for 1 degree + caster...
if a tire wears on the inside you have too much negative camber, if a tire wears on the outside you have to much positive camber if it cups usually it is a worn component if a car wanders or doesn't want to return to center you have too much positive caster if a tire looks like it is sliding sideways or "scrubbed'' the toe in is way off if a car vibrates in the steering wheel its a problem with the front end if it vibrates in the seat of your pants its in the back end ride height affects alignment if a car does not sit level it will be a bear to align and you may not ever get it perfect and thats all i got to say about that
That's right. To get an inch measurement you have to have a gauge that measures the distance between the backs of the tires vs the fronts. The shops that use lasers can only measure degrees. Don't know but I just always figured the shops using lasers had to input tire diameter info into the computer so it could calculate toe.
I set mine like yours except for castor, +4.5° here. Just for giggles, I tested for the max castor with the RCM clip and got +8.5°. I did my own alignment using this tool from Speedway:
Thats because they were to lazy to add shims to the upper a arm to get the caster spec without uncentering the wheel in the fenderwell.
Ah, thanks. I knew something just didn't seem right. Result was a costly trip to the body shop to repair the valance. After a ton of expenditures...it's back to the drawing board.
