Alluminum flywheel?

Discussion in 'General Maverick/Comet' started by Kris, May 29, 2018.

  1. Kris

    Kris Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2015
    Messages:
    47
    Likes Received:
    2
    Trophy Points:
    15
    Location:
    Oak View, CA
    Vehicle:
    70 2dr 302 T5 (weight reduction by rust)
    I'm gonna put my 302/t5 back in soon, but my flywheel looks pretty hammered. I was thinking of upgrading. I was wondering what anyone might have tried and could recomend. Will I notice any difference? Durability? Vaule? Should i go aluminum, stainless or just stay stock? ( I'll be doin the clutch too of course) just trying to get some ideas
     
  2. dyent

    dyent Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2012
    Messages:
    1,144
    Likes Received:
    432
    Trophy Points:
    258
    Location:
    vancouver bc
    Vehicle:
    1973 Comet 2 dr., 302 w/AR aluminum heads, Toploader 4 spd, 9" Trac-Lok w/3.70
    If you just have a relatively stock or mildly built 302, just stick with the stock flywheel, depending on how bad your flywheel is, it can be resurfaced, how is the ring gear? Brand new replacement OEM stock flywheels are fairly inexpensive, Auto Zone, Summit, Jeg's etc........
    David
     
    mojo likes this.
  3. Kris

    Kris Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2015
    Messages:
    47
    Likes Received:
    2
    Trophy Points:
    15
    Location:
    Oak View, CA
    Vehicle:
    70 2dr 302 T5 (weight reduction by rust)
    Its 300-ish hp, nothing extreme, the ring gear is a lil worn and the clutch surface looks like it has lil cracks but it could be just from being glazed over. Would rather replace than bother resurface/gearing, If theres nothing to be gained from a fancy whizbang flywheel then I'll go stock I guess.
     
  4. groberts101

    groberts101 Member

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2007
    Messages:
    4,166
    Likes Received:
    535
    Trophy Points:
    297
    Garage:
    1
    Location:
    Minneapolis, MN
    Vehicle:
    1971 Comet GT
    Stuff like this is very subjective. So basically you just have to weigh the added cost vs gain from each design. From there you'll need to have some understanding of the potential gain(or loss) that will be seen between the various designs. Either way you decide.. doesn't make much sense to use old beat up components if they're not rare, are easily found and rather inexpensive and it's already apart for freshening anyways.

    In a nutshell.. the aluminum flywheels reduced rotating mass will allow slightly better throttle response and quicker engine rpm gain.. faster rev's. Downshifting and rpm gain is more instantanious feeling. Nothing completely earth shattering.. but fairly easily perceived nonetheless.

    If you really like to bang the gears harder or even powershift(scratch rubber on the upshifts).. about the only downside to lighter flywheel mass is the reduction in inertia. That reduction in rotating mass/inertia then causes the motor to slow down quicker during harder/power shifts which results in less rubber being scratched from the tires on the upshifts. Basically softens the torque multiplication factor of the spinning flywheels sudden change in rpm during shifts. Again.. nothing drastic but fairly easily perceived.
     
  5. Kris

    Kris Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2015
    Messages:
    47
    Likes Received:
    2
    Trophy Points:
    15
    Location:
    Oak View, CA
    Vehicle:
    70 2dr 302 T5 (weight reduction by rust)
    Any idea on the longevity of the aluminum flywheel? It would seem being softer would mean more wear, or does it need a different clutch? Im building more for road race rather than drag, so I like the idea of quicker gear changes and fast revs. But I know the benefit of a weighted flywheel from hillclimbing dirt bikes too. IDK its prob gonna come down to price. Anyone know whos got the good deals?
     
  6. groberts101

    groberts101 Member

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2007
    Messages:
    4,166
    Likes Received:
    535
    Trophy Points:
    297
    Garage:
    1
    Location:
    Minneapolis, MN
    Vehicle:
    1971 Comet GT
    The aluminum stuff has a steel insert and ring gear. Full aluminum would never work.

    Centerforce, mcleod, hayes, ford motorsport, etc, etc.. tons of options. Just need to make sure to match the rotating weight factor of your engine to make everything balance out and avoid vibration.
     
    Maverocket likes this.
  7. Kris

    Kris Member

    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2015
    Messages:
    47
    Likes Received:
    2
    Trophy Points:
    15
    Location:
    Oak View, CA
    Vehicle:
    70 2dr 302 T5 (weight reduction by rust)
  8. CaptainComet

    CaptainComet Large Member

    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2007
    Messages:
    4,981
    Likes Received:
    433
    Trophy Points:
    413
    Location:
    Clearwater, FL
    Vehicle:
    72 Comet
    I would lean toward a steel flywheel for a street car. I would think that the added inertia a motor speeds you typically drive at will help launch the car. Not as important for a light vehicle like ours, compared to heavier cars, but still, I think it would be much smoother from dead stops.
     
  9. groberts101

    groberts101 Member

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2007
    Messages:
    4,166
    Likes Received:
    535
    Trophy Points:
    297
    Garage:
    1
    Location:
    Minneapolis, MN
    Vehicle:
    1971 Comet GT
    Hi Cap. Actually, if you think about the weight being slowed down more easily during shifts/clutch engagements.. the aluminum flywheel gives that softer effect as it speed matches more quickly. Plus I think he wanted a little more road racer than drag.. so personally, I'd still rec the aluminum one over steel.

    If you've ever experienced the faster rev's gained from a smaller torque converter diameter.. it's somewhat similar in that respect. Rev's/accelerates quicker but just a bit softer on the shifts, is all.
     

Share This Page