alternator not charging battery

Discussion in 'New Members Forum' started by devrin010, Jan 12, 2014.

  1. rthomas771

    rthomas771 Member

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    Did you try what I suggested in post #7?
     
  2. devrin010

    devrin010 Member

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    ya i checked the link and it was bad after the fuse so i just cut and solder the a new end on still no charge
     
  3. devrin010

    devrin010 Member

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    ya i rev'ed it up and got the same voltage
     
  4. rthomas771

    rthomas771 Member

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    Run a ground 12 gauge wire under the screw holding the regulator and the other end of the wire to the alternator ground terminal and see if that helps.
     
  5. schroensr

    schroensr knight Runner

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    Welcome to the site friend.:Welcome:
     
  6. MSmithPDX

    MSmithPDX Member

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    By putting in a known good switch.
     
  7. devrin010

    devrin010 Member

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    maverick wont start please gelp

    I can't get my 1973 maverick to start I tryed to re-gap the points and now I can't start it please help need it to start so I can sell it
     
  8. MSmithPDX

    MSmithPDX Member

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    Go to 7-eleven and get a match book. Set the points using that and you'll be fine for life.
     
  9. devrin010

    devrin010 Member

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    Thank you, It worked but its back fire when I step on it
     
  10. mav1970

    mav1970 Bob Hatcher

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    The ol' match book trick - always worked for me :thumbs2:
     
  11. devrin010

    devrin010 Member

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    IV always had this back fire issue even before I messed with the points
     
  12. MSmithPDX

    MSmithPDX Member

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    What motor and carb again?

    The most common cause of backfires after the fouled plugs, and resetting points comes from slop in your timing. You either have a lag in the advance that causes a little rich fuel before the timing pulls all the way out, or your valves are open at the sime time minorly(or majorly every few cycles).

    You can check for both situations by plugging in a vacuum gauge. For example, you can put a spark indicator on the #1 plug and watch for a flutter on the vacuum gauge needle when it indicates firing, and quick pendulum action lined up with the firing, often means both valves are open for a small amount of time, the depth of the flutter indicates how much time they are both open.

    The lag in the vacuum advance is also pretty obvious because the vacuum will drop incorrectly when you actuate the accelerator.

    Check over your vacuum routing, make sure you're on manifold vacuum and not ported vacuum (it's a personal choice really, but if you're carburetor is REALLY dirty it can have a huge affect on the ported vacuum). Maybe your vacuum pot on your distributor needs to be adjusted if it's adjustable, maybe it needs to be replaced. Could be loose springs in the distributor, or you just need to tweak the timing a little.

    A lot of simple things cause backfires, as well as a few majors. valves open at the same time, could be a major problem caused by cam wear or timing chain wear, or a minor problem because your distributor gear is worn and you just need to replace it.
     
  13. MSmithPDX

    MSmithPDX Member

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    Also, I don't know what I'm talking about very well, so some of that is probably not 100% correctly explained. But should get you started on some testing procedures.

    And there are some guys who will probably relish the chance to correct the heck out of me, which is a bit of what I'm hoping for here for you.
     
    Last edited: May 12, 2014

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