Am at the end of my rope with this amp problem

Discussion in 'Audio' started by doncomfort, Apr 17, 2014.

  1. MSmithPDX

    MSmithPDX Member

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    I disagree on the 60 amps. What's the point of having a fuse 20 amps bigger than he needs? Consider your sound quality and actually protecting your system. 40amp fuse, and 4 or 6ga wire and you'll be good to go. A 60 amp fuse will let your amp blow before the fuse does.

    Remember the 1100W or 350W per channel is the output. Not the input. You have to fuse for the input levels, your fuse should not be big enough for the output. I run my small amp on a 5amp fuse in my car. The input power on your amplifier is like 3A-12A peak I think. Can't seem to find the spec sheet for what you stated, so I kind of roughed it out.

    P=IE, Watts=amps X voltage, Watts = (Voltage / Resistance (ohms)) * Voltage. that's all you need to know, to figure out audio systems. Then you can take a general rule of thumb, and figure your output is almost never going to be more than 10X your input... and you realize most people massively over-fuse.
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2014
  2. doncomfort

    doncomfort MCCI Membership Director

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    One last thing. What size wire should I have going to the subs?
     
  3. MSmithPDX

    MSmithPDX Member

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    Personally, I run the next size down than I ran into the amplifier.
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2014
  4. mojo

    mojo "Everett"- Senior Citizen Supporting Member

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    I am running the fuse and wire the mfg of my equipment specified. That why I say read the instructions. I am not winging-it - I am following instructions.
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2014
  5. bmcdaniel

    bmcdaniel Senile Member

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    I don't think I like the sound of that...
     
  6. MSmithPDX

    MSmithPDX Member

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    I'm not winging it either. I'm giving an informed and educated opinion. If you don't like it you don't have to follow it. For the record though, I've been the guy writing those types of instructions. They are written to provide the bare minimum of protection, the least amount of routine maintenance, and you having to replace expensive parts as often as possible without pissing you off enough to buy a competitors products.

    They know if they tell you to use fuse too close it'll blow every now and then when it gets too hot outside. So rather than risk you calling customer support over why you keep blowing fuses when you drive over a pothole in the hottest day of the year... They over estimate how much protection you really need, and prefer you risk blowing your amp, because then they get to sell you a new one.
     
  7. jtown77

    jtown77 Member

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    Don't forget to get some dielectric grease or anti-oxidant to put on all your connections. Anytime you have an electrical connection that is exposed to the environment (under the hood). Corrosion will start... And double check all the grounds.
    Good Luck
     
  8. doncomfort

    doncomfort MCCI Membership Director

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    Im going to check the ground connection in the trunk first. Then I will check the battery connection. I didnt give it much thought, but it was pouring down rain when it quit last year. I was used to it going off from time to time when it got hot. That time, it didnt come back on. I feel pretty good about tracking down the problem now.. Thanks everyone!
     
  9. MSmithPDX

    MSmithPDX Member

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    That right there is a symptom that you're fuse was too big, and didn't break the circuit when it was supposed to. Also, evidence of corroded wiring and poor grounds... but a properly sized fused might have helped a few years earlier. You would have figured out the bad wires because you'd have gotten sick of replacing blown fuses.
     
  10. doncomfort

    doncomfort MCCI Membership Director

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    The Mav is bumpin again! :bananamanThe inline fuse at the battery was corroded big time. I swore I checked that. Oh well, now I have an extra set up to put in my BMW. Thanks again for all the help. :tiphat:
     
  11. MSmithPDX

    MSmithPDX Member

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    Yep. If it was just a bad fuse, replace it and drive on. Everything else is good enough.
     
  12. mojo

    mojo "Everett"- Senior Citizen Supporting Member

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    I respect your educated opinion, Mr.PDX. I also respect the peoples knowledge the made the equipment. My Rockford Fosgate mono-amp specifies 4ga. wire & 60amp max fuse. That is what I have had in the car for 5yrs. I have driven several thousand miles, over many potholes, w/o blowing any fuses in 95+ weather -- no issues. Im sure I cud get by w/ something less than a 60amp fuse, considering the output I levels use, most of the time.
    Rarely have I had issues w/ equipment I followed mfg. instructions on installations and/or operations; my troubles usually occured when I did not.
    Lastly, most folks wud be hesitant purchasing a new piece of equipment from the same mfg., they had, or thought they had, w/ the troublesome equipment . No offense - JMO
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2014
  13. mojo

    mojo "Everett"- Senior Citizen Supporting Member

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    Glad you got it resolved. (y)
     
  14. MSmithPDX

    MSmithPDX Member

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    You are entirely missing the point. Sorry.
     
  15. doncomfort

    doncomfort MCCI Membership Director

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    Got the new amp mounted and adjusted.

    The manual calls for 4g wire and a 60 amp fuse. I don't believe this amp pulls more power than my old one. The amp has 2 30 amp fuses like the old one did. I am leaving the wire I have as well as the 30 amp fuse. If it blows a lot, I will upgrade.

    Thanks so much to everyone for the help.

    [​IMG]
     

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