Looking for opinions, this is a new build about 1 hour run time and went down the street once with it open headers. My goal was to have a healthy sounding engine and to be drivable and may be take it to the track a few times. So it does sound good but I think it may be to radical for my needs. So here is what I have Engine- 331 Stroker -compression approx 9.75 Cylinder heads- Pro-maxx Max 175- 60cc- 2.020 intake-1.600exh-intake port volume 175cc-flow 266@600 lift Intake- Edelbrock Performer RPM Carb-Quick Fuel-HR 680VS Cam-Comp Cam Magnum 290HR-Retro Fit-Duration 290-Duration @.050" lift 230-Valve lift I & E .544 lobe separation 110*- intake center line 106* MSD ready to run dist and coil Headman headers-88300-1 5/8" tube-3" collector Torque converter 10"-stall 2800-3200 rpm Trans rebilt with shift kit Rear end 3.55 traction lock Rear tires 255/60-27" tall Also has an old set of Southside lift bars on it and Alston subframe connectors So thats about it so let me know what you think-Thanks
Ummm dats real purdy... It no doubt depends on what one expects but a 230* @ .050 would more than I'd want for a mostly cruiser... Even with advanced base timing, modded dist curve, carb tuning and the stall converter you have it's apt to be a bit "jumpy" at idle and low cruising speed...
Thanks Krazy. I really need to drive the car to see how it will react and if I can live with it but I have no exhaust for it and the weather is iffy around here for now. I may have to wait till spring to get exhaust done. Is there enough room to pull the cam without pulling engine ?
I have a 349 with the 282 Comp Cam it's 232/240 lift 566/576 3000 TCI converter 389 gear 26 inch tall tires I like the thumb
That's a sweet little motor you put together. IMHO, the static compression is just a tad low for that cams duration. Next size down would have been closer.. 2 sizes probably perfect. BUT.. the extra bit of stroke, tighter lob sep, dual plane manifold and smaller cross sectional area of those cylinder heads easily compensates for much of that shortcoming. Plus you could easily tune that for regular fuel if need be. I myself wouldn't do it due to the slight power losses that come from an ignition delay(detune).. but some are concerned about fuel costs and availability. Personally speaking, with the engine still out on the stand, I'd just move the cams ICL up on a 104 or 102°(2 - 4° advanced) to pump up the meat of the power curve by building cylinder pressure sooner. Then go enjoy the hell out of it through the mid-range. At least till the cam starts signing off harder around 6,400 rpm(depending on valve spring rate). The car is light but the gears you're running(trans AND axle) with 27" tires still need torque to get the car rolling along to quickly reach the meat of this cams power curve. My guess is that the true stall speed will be on the lower end of those spec's due to this cam being softened up a tad by the current static compression ratio. So, advanced cam timing will also help the engine to "come up on the converter" quicker, a bit higher rpm and hit it harder overall. More cylinder pressure, more manifold vacuum, more torque, more throttle response.. more fun. Just be aware that the tuneup changes when advancing the cam and PTV clearance needs to be checked depending on where you were at with PTV clearance in the first place. The intake PTV clearance gets tighter with cam advance.
Thanks for your input but the engine is in the car and I have been using 93 octane fuel. What if I were to change out the rear gears to say 3.80 or just change out the cam. Changing out the cam is more work but what else have I got to do.
When I took mine out for the first and only time it did not puck and fart it ran very well it actually scared me a little. So use to driving newer cars with no power. So maybe it's just me. Does your car give your eyes burning feeling when running in garage?
And just to clarify.. i was responding to the question of whether or not the cam was too much or best tailored for this specific engine and chassis combo. Not so much relating to the cam choice based on any individuals power threshold. Far too subjective based for anyone here to accurately answer a question like that. The combo of parts needs to work together for best results. Otherwise.. it's even more crutches and bandaids than we're already forced to apply to any conventional 2 valved 4 stroke. What is the static timing set at? How much mechanical advance and @ what rpm is it all in by? Vacuum advance canisters hose running to full manifold vacuum?.. or ported/timed source on the carb? What is the manifold vacuum @ idle? New carb?.. spec's? How many turns out are the idle screws currently set at?
No it does not make my eyes burn when running in the garage, but I will say my wife doesn't like it very much.
IT drive fine to me I would like more thump I just be happy with for now. I don't have have to turn it 7500 to get all about 6200 and it's good. I have had this combo for 3 years about 15000 miles.
It is supposed to scare you a little bit! You put together a potent combination and it sounds like you got what you asked for. Get an exhaust on it and I'm confident you will perceive it a bit differently. If you don't have sufficient tuning knowledge, take the car to a good chassis dyno shop and get it tuned. Thereafter, drive the snot out of it and get to know your car. If you are like us, you'll be craving for more power pretty soon.
Thanks to everyone that responded, for now engine is on hold till exhaust gets done-mufflers have been ordered. Thanks again