Another wrench day ... slowly but surely ..

I provided them the pattern to use for the vapor line. I hope mine is O.K. I picked mine up at a swap meet....so they didn't have to bend it in order to fit it in a box. Hopefully find out real soon on mine (that is if I ever work on it).

 

Craig - check yours out and see what the firewall side looks like .... The one I bought from them did not even look similar to the area I have circled in green ...

 

This is what they sent me ... not even close ...

 

You mentioned "Just Right Detailing" Is that the the same as "the Right Stuff"? If so I wonder what happened. I gave them all my lines off my Sprint and they redid them. Although a little tweeking was needed here and there, it was very little and they fit pretty good. I was very happy with them.

 

Whoops .. yeah Right Stuff. Did they add your patterns to the their database? If so they must have sent me the wrong line ... My goal was to have my lines look as nice as yours!

 

My new one looks like your original one....but it will be hard to tell until I install it. I have several Mavs around here to compare to at the time when that happens

 

That's good for you. Bummer for me ... my engine is going in this week (took the week off from work just to do it) so I don't have time to order another one .... and there ain't no way I'm gonna try to snake it in with the drivetrain in place!

 

Dan, how hard was it to install the clutch and brake pedals? I am assuming it was an automatic setup in the car originally?

 

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Yea, they did mine about 2 years ago

 

Pretty simple ... I got excited and installed my steering column first but it would be much easier with it out.

1) Remove Brake Push Rod from original pedal
2) Remove Clip to the right of the original pedal
3) Slide out the bar and remove the pedal
4) Put your stick brake pedal in place and slide the shaft of the clutch pedal through where the original empty bar was. Make sure you have all your plastic bushings in place.
5) Replace the end clip and your pedals should be dangling.
6) Now the hard part - to install the Cluch pedal helper spring
7) Install the spring keeper using just one bolt in the hole furthest from pedal. This will allow the keeper to pivot
8) Now install the spring - the tension will keep it in place
9) Move the kids so they don't hear you cursing ..
10) Pivot the spring keeper and put the second bolt in. The tension on the spring makes it keep jumping past the hole but keep working on it and it will go in.
11) Your done ...


If your car was an automatic you will need to cut a hole in the firewall for you clutch rod ... The hole is already marked ... to the right and below the master cylinder hole when looking in the engine compartment.

 

I used that hole marking for the clutch rod and it ended up being to big for the boot that goes into it. Make sure you measure the boot before cutting the hole. I have to make a sheet metal adapter now......

 

Yup - I had the same problem .. boot slides right through. What's strange is that my parts car is original stick car and the hole is the same size as the marked hole ... same size as the master cylinder hole. I guess the repro boots are not as large as the originals ... I have to do the sheet metal trick too ... I'm think if somebody makes a large metal washer that might work too ..

 

Not sure what the difference is?? My boot is an original out of the I6 car.

 

Question...

..did all the factory V-8 cars come reinforcements at the
bottom of the shock towers?

Mine has some extra metal that I don't see in the pics
of your engine bay. I have never paid any attention
to it before.

I know on Mustangs and Cougars the big block cars
got reinforcement at the bottom of the shock towers.



Seth

 

Post some pics of the extra metal ....