Question on this stock converter subject ..... Do you mean it will suck on a car just as a cruiser and in what respect? Asking cuz I may go AOD and want to have some idea of which direction to go for my needs! Seems like there is a lot to this conversion depending on intended usage.
I may be injecting too much of my own experience, which means slightly rumpy cam... With your current engine the AOD won't be any different in 1st & 2nd than with a C4, sooo if you are happy no worry there... I look at it as a chance to gain bottom end torque and consider a 2400 minimum for a stockish engine(would do wonders for otherwise stock 5.0 Mustangs)... If you have a 2.79 or 3.00 rear you should probably switch to a 3.50(.68 x 3.00 = 2.04 ratio while a 3.50 figures to a 2.38) ... With 2.79/3. 00, unless you're running 60 to 65 MPH or better the RPMs will be so low in O/D it'll be lazy and possibly won't be making enough vacuum to hold the power valve in carb closed(meaning A/F ratio will be extremely rich = more doggish)... Also remember there is no converter slip in O/D, so at least a 200 RPM reduction is gained by this feature alone... Of course there isn't anything that prevents one from shifting out of O/D till you really need it, the partial lockup of 3rd will drop RPMs maybe 150(possibly more on light throttle), so with a 2.79/3.00 you'd likely find cruising at 50-55 MPH a noticeable improvement...
I know this is an old thread, but I have been researching overdrive automatics since I have decided to upgrade my differential, and think I should pick a gear a that will work with OD. I dont do a ton of "spirited driving," but when I do, it doesnt go beyond second gear....so I think I could live with the locking converter. I am thinking a 3.55, and a set of 22 inch tall tires to bolt on when I want to go drag racing. Even then, I dont think I will make it out of 2nd gear. I need to find a junk car with a roller 302 and AOD so I can get the quicker cam ramps and have a little less overlap....I would be getting close to using it as a daily driver if the mileage and exhaust fumes were just a little better.....and a more comfy seat! But, back to the subject. Would the inner shaft of the two input shafts be the one to replace, and does that cast drum need to go? Is there a year that the AOD came with a steel drum already in it, or do the electric ones only have it? Has anyone rebuilt their own? There are videos about it......but I really hate the idea of not getting it right on the first try.
I had a full race AOD in my car at one time. reverse lockout, trans-brake, manual valvebody and OD lockout... Collin has it in his 73 now (going on 3 years). it's his daily driver to college. ......
this link has some worthwhile info on AODs and the electronic versions. This thread mentions the best AODs are found in 92 and 93 f150 with 5.0 . I have 25" tires currently.....the gear ratio calculator I used (if I used it right) told me the 22" tires with a 3.55 rear would be like a 3.80 with 25"....but my eyes are getting tired from reading...reading........reading....................zzzzzzzzzzzz
I ran 24" on my Bird with 3.73 & AOD, no issues at all. Turned maybe 2500 RPM @ 70mph. ET & especially the 60ft was higher(lost a tenth) with 27" tires, always figured it should have 4:30 gear. By comparison, with 2200 stall in the C4, 3.00 gear & 27" tires, the Comet is a dog.
