Thought I would post some info regarding my AOD install. First, I have a 74 Maverick with a (demon carburetor) 5.0. I started with the large truck C4. So, I had the large 164 tooth flex plate, the larger bell housing and a mini starter installed. I didn't need to change the flex plate or starter. In addition, I have an external transmission cooler and the lines bolted on without modification to the AOD (hoses were long enough, in fact, the AOD cooler line fittings are farther forward than the C4 fittings). Finally, I have a B&M shifter installed that was able to be used with either a C4 or AOD. Remember, the AOD shift pattern is a bit weird. You can shift from 1st to 2nd and then pull the shifter back into the 1st position. The trans will stay in 2nd. Shift again and you will be in 3rd. The next detent would be 4th gear or D with the circle around it if you remember those old school AOD cars (I think I have this correct). Do yourself a favor and buy the Lokar throttle cable, TV cable and carburetor bracket kit. This will make installation a lot easier (LOK-KD2AOD, SRK-4000, TC-1000). Here is a great PDF link from Lokar. Also, purchase an AOD cross member from Frank. Again, this will make things a lot easier. Let's start. In the trans tunnel, there is a brace that the cross member bolts onto. When installing the AOD, it is very close to this brace particularly on the passenger side (see picture AODP). There seems to be more room on the driver side (AODD). The center shot of the cross member simply shows it installed. I don't recommend notching this brace as it is important for structural integrity. It is close but it does fit. Also, be aware that the trans vent tube is located on the AOD such that it will be between the trans and this brace! The bell housing fit nicely and trans to motor bolts were not any more difficult to access when compared to the C4. The speedometer cable bolted up without issue and the B&M shifter cable bolted up but needed a different bracket on the trans. I also bought a new pan with a drain plug. The driveshaft will need to be shortened about 1 inch. I had a new shaft made as the old one was from the original 200 CI C4 trans. Once everything is installed, you will need to add trans fluid. I added 2-3 courts to the torque converter before installing it in the trans. Total trans fluid volume was 12 qts. Before starting the engine I set the TV cable as instructed in the Lokar instructions. I installed the TV lever at the trans in the up position and the shift lever in the down position. I did have to trim the TV cable housing to fit. The lever installation is straight forward. You may need to change the shift lever depending upon your shifter brand. Then, using the Lokar carburetor bracket I installed the throttle cable and TV cable as shown in the Lokar setup image. To initially set the TV cable with the carb in the idle position (not running) remove all of the slack from the cable and gently tighten the set screw. You should be close. Next, go to harbor freight and buy an engine oil pressure gauge. They cost about $25. Well worth it!! It comes with all the fittings necessary to attach it to the trans. See the pictures below for the gauge setup (it is on the passenger side). With the rear wheels off the ground, I started the engine and ran the trans through the gears. As long as the wheels are off of the ground you will not burn the trans even if the TV cable isn't set correctly. Once you have adequate fluid in the trans you can set the TV cable. With the trans in neutral and the fluid warm, not hot, the pressure should read between 0-5 psi. Then insert the Lokar kit gauge tool between the cable and Lokar head as shown in the image below. The pressure should read about 35 psi. Pull the tool out and the pressure should return to 0-5 psi. Then as you gradually apply throttle the pressure should rise. Some people set these cables without checking the pressure but the gauge is cheap enough that it is worth the insurance. In my case, I initially found the pressure at idle was 30 psi. The reason....the TV lever on the trans was not returning to the idle position. So, on the advice of the Lokar tech folks I installed a fairly week return spring (see pic below). Once I did this the pressure read between 0-5 psi at idle. I ultimately set the idle pressure at 2 psi and the off idle with gauge tool installed at 40 psi. When doing this you know you have immediate pressure when the throttle is applied. Once everything was set, I trimmed the cable and tightened the set screw. Remember, any time you adjust the throttle you need to recheck the line pressure as describe above. In the end, this really isn't that difficult and don't let the TV cable thing intimidate you! I hope this helps a few folks. Maybe this should be a sticky?
That is another story! Had a 91 EFI system in the car but it takes up so much room that I removed it. With the aftermarket systems available today I would go with a system that bolts to the carb manifold. Easy to install and leaves you with some room. I can't change my screen name so never really pursued it!
It definitely will be, I will be doing this instal in the next year or so and I will be looking back at this!
Thank you so much. The time you spent writing your experience is appreciated. I witnessed a trans destroy itself in 20 minutes because of a TV cable out of adjustment. Great tips about tires spinning freely. About to pull the trigger on a swap myself and doing my studies before hand. Thanks again.
Glad others can use it! Good luck with the install. Just read through it again...........now if I could only figure out how to spell courts of transmission fluid I'd be in business!
When TV cable is broken, disconnected, misadjusted, etc anyone halfway familiar with automatic transmission operation should notice shifting is wonky. Gagging throttle when trans is slipping is only going to burn it up.
