Looking great, Dave! There shouldn't be any reason you couldn't plant now - unless you throw even more horsepower at it (and none of us want to do that ). Looking forward to 'after' pics and ultimately, a video of a run or two. -Rick
Re: Wheel Tub Install... Sure, any help installing them would be GREATLY appreciated. I hate sheet metal work, so I'll need all the pointers anyone can give me! Feel free to Email me mavman687@conwaycorp.net
Left two 3in long stubs of the original rear frame at the rear crossmember and welded to them. also ran two pieces of square tubing from the the rear crossmember where the original bumper mounts are located and welded and bolted them to it.
Would you mind keeping us posted on the cost of doing this because when I get another Maverick I want to do exactly what you're doing. You're doing all the labor and welding yourself, right?
Yep, all the labor and welding is done here by ourselves. Cost, you're looking at about $1500-$3500 depending on whether you want to buy your own housing or cut/shorten your own, as well as whether you want to use chrome-moly or mild tubing, etc.
Wheel Tub Install... Hey Guys, Here is the e-mail that I sent Todd: Todd, Sorry I haven't responded sooner...I just got back in town. Went to the PRI show in Indianapolis. Anyway.... I do wheel tubs like this: I clamp the back portion of the tub in place, just like you would normally do to take your measurements from the back of the tub to the outside of the car. Then I get a piece of regular corrugated cardboard that is as long as the metal that you will be using for the top of your tub. Cut it so that it is pretty wide...within 3 inches or so from the body where the tub will touch. Then go to your local Wal-Mart store or whatever you have locally and get some wooden pick-up sticks in the toy department. I like the wooden ones because they don't seem to warp as easily, and if you need more, you can just break one in half, and it will usually work. Put the cardboard on end and insert the pick-up sticks inside the corrugation. It will hold them perfectly! Now tape the piece in place and get a pair of needle-nose pliers and pull the sticks out until they touch the outside of the body. Once you're done, remove the piece and lay it on top of your metal piece and trace along the edges of the sticks to transfer your pattern. I do all of my tubs this way! It saves me a lot of time! Hope this helps....
the best chassis book ever published is called "Doorslammers" by Dave Morgan. You can get it at Jegs, Summit, Pulley Engineering, etc. Usually retails for about $30, but WELL worth it.
Think you might be able to throw a couple of pics of the exterior of the car on here. Do you mind giving me the specs on your rearend and tire, (such as width, height, axle width. I am curious how she looks with the tires under her. Great job by the way guys. If i could only be as good. :bananaman
