http://www.cachassisworks.com click tech tips, then read all you wanted to know about rod ends. I used mild steel 3/4" x 3/4" spherical ends. The 4130 Chrome moly ends are about twice as strong, and I may end up changing them at a later date. The 4-link frame rail kit comes with a blueprint with all the measurements. You will still have to figure your frame width (which depends on how large of a tire you want to use) and a few other measurements that are vehicle specific, but other than that, it was about the easiest thing to do. The important thing to remember is measure 5 times, and cut/weld ONCE. Measurement is critical, especially if you plan on using a ladder bar rear. With ladders, it's best to buy a pre-welded rear clip as they're already jig-welded and the chances of messing up are greatly reduced. Once a ladder bar rear clip is installed, if it's not absolutely perfect, it will cause problems as there isn't enough adjustment to "fix" it. Another word of advice, if you're not good with math and numbers, it's best left to pros! There's lots of geometry to be figured out. Who said all that stuff we learned in school would be useless! I actually had to resort to the 'net to refresh some of my geometric skills I learned in Jr. and Sr. high school LOL.
another pic, this time with a LOT more progress. Steering column done, complete with quick release hub (came with Pulley Engineering column kit), cage front supports, and factory Mustang 2 crossmember installed. Easy work, just a LOT of measurement, cutting, and tack welding, breaking the tacks, and doing it all over again until you're satisfied.
I used the factory upper control arms for getting it all mocked up. The lowers are tubular that I got from eBay, along with the rotors. I will change the spindles and upper arms eventually, but for now, it will work to get everything installed and figured out. I used threaded rod welded to a spacer to "mock" the springs...it goes into the shock mounts, and a nut is threaded underneath the upper shock mount to adjust ride height. I will be needing 2" dropped spindles to achieve the proper steering geometry with the desired ride height. All in all, there's now room for a 460 in there. Very easy swap, but you have to remember to measure, measure, and measure 2 more times before welding. On a lighter note, I ran across an old TIG welder from a buddy a couple weeks ago for $35. He didn't know what it was (it's an old Miller HF-15-2WG) and I welded the entire M2 crossmember in with it. It's not near as fast as a MIG but the weld quality is 10 times better.
Oh, and I still have the entire Maverick front suspension if any of you are interested in it. Email me and let me know what part(s) of it you are interested in. It was a manual steer, drum brake '75 model. I have the center link, steering box, and everything else. Would work great for a manual steering conversion.
MavMan; interested in the steering box. Let me know what shape it is in, and how much you want for it, including shipping to 30234 (GA.). Congrats, good work! Earl
Those are two of the best photos of a Mustang II front end that I have seen. I found some pretty decent ones on a Falcon board but these are better. Especially the second one. I've already saved them off on my drive. Picture #2 really shows the anti-dive angle well. I have a MII front end all stripped down and ready to go out in the shed. I would like to put it in next winter. Good job guys.
