So i got all the leaks fixed. Not a lot of backfire anote but i have another problem. It does not want to hold a steady idle so i cant get a good vacuum reading. Any idea why this is?
yep. we need TONS more build info.. and where you're at with the tune right now. Include FULL timing spec's.. AND what parts spec's came in the carb(specific part number to look up spec's?). Also.. didn't you initially say it ran well up to 2,000 rpm even with the leak? Which brings up the obvious question.. did you retune this thing AFTER you fixed the leak?
Okay here i go. 1985 ford 302 HO with edelbrock preformer rpm cam, has roller lifters, .30 over, weiland street warrior intake, Holley 670 street avenger with electric choke, edelbrock mechanical fuel pump 6psi, e7 heads with heavy springs for the cam, stock rockers, stock fox dist. With fox body ignition box, t5 manual transmission with cable clutch conversion, and i think thats all
And with the tune I'm still trying to get the initial set. There's not a good constant vacuum so i cant get far with a vacuum gauge. I set the advance to the 15l advance arm instead of 10, which i think was a mistake now that i think about it. I need the higher initial the 10 will Let me get right?
the performer rpm is not that big of a cam. it should make at least 10 to 12 inches of vacuum. you may have a cam timing issue. did you degree it when you installed it? are you 100% sure the timing chain was put on correctly with the dots lined up? do you have all the unused vacuum ports on the carb and intake plugged up? their is usually a big port on the back side of the carb under the float bowl that is easily missed.
I said bigger lol. And 10-12 inches of vacuum is enough? I'm getting that easy just it isn't constant. And yeah the timing drive was set okay bacause before the intake and carb it ran fine. My main problem is that it isn't smooth vacuum. Its a gear drive by the way not a chain
you will get 1 to 2 inches of needle bounce with a loppy cam like the rpm one. it should be a steady consistent bounce of the needle. if its not consistent you can be dealing with a valve problem. also the gear drive is not the greatest thing for the valve train. it transmits all vibration from crank to the cam and cam to crank. a chain absorbs a lot of vibration and a belt is the best. so its possible your gear dive could be the cause of your developing problem. it may be a good time to do a compression test and a leak down test.
I have a double roller for it too maybe I'll install that. And now that your motioned cam advance i looked up symptoms and there similar to some of the problems I'm having. How do i determine how much advance i should do? I'm sure its different engine to engine, but how should i find out how much i need?
