That is for trunk lids that hit us on the head when we have our heads in the trunk. My 04 dodge ram has learned bad lessons from the maverick. When I pop the hood to check the oil or trans fluid, about 10 seconds later, the hydraulic shocks let loose and the hood drops on my head. Every time.
So are the trunk lids dropping because of added weight? Mine stays up fine, just adjusted the wire to where it would stay up.
I adjusted mine to the max, still falls on me. I really need to add the shocks. Someday. Luckily, the knot on the back of my head cushions the impact of the hood hitting me there, so it hardly hurts anymore!
What's your point ? Or am I not allowed to give input here ? Or did you not figure out why I gave him another option to keep the battery under the hood by giving the example of hard starts with mine ? I did everything right in relocating my battery, (2-aught welding cable, and a separate ground directly from the battery to the engine block) yet still had starting problems because of it. So, hence the option given of building a new, solid battery tray under the hood.
My two cents Keep it in the trunk usually hard starts relate to several things bad battery bad ground or timing advanced to high but you already knew that.
I also think having a battery located in the rear of a vechicle is not the sole reason for hard/hot starts. I have a 06 Buick Lucerne w/ battery under rear seat. Before it, we had a 95 Riv, battery under rear seat ... never issue w/ starting. Along w/ the things Wrightime mentioned; I will add heat frm headers close to starters have an impact.
Lets see, new starter, new 2-0 welding cable, ditto on the negative, no bad grounds (this ain't my first rodeo) Anyone wanna add any other ideas ?
starter doesn't care where the battery is, if everything is connected right/good connections...it will start with no problems...
My battery tray in the engine compartment is fine... I think having a power source in the trunk will be easier with all of the electronics I plan to add. I'll still be able to pull from the selenoid up front too. Plus if it get's hit or explodes, I'd rather have battery acid all over my trunk than my new engine. So this whole venting thing.... Can I just make it a sealed metal box with a vent coming out of the box, or does the actual battery have to be vented? Where do you guys vent it to? My batter has some bad*** cold cranking amps... doubt I'll have a problem with starting, but if I'm going to go with a lower resistance wire than 2 gauge....now would be the time
might I suggest maybe taking the box by... http://www.linex.com/ ...and have them coat the inside of the box and lid.
It does, because it's Direct Current, DC looses power the further it's transmitted, this is why we use AC in everything else. It can be transmitted long distances, DC cannot
A lead acid battery needs to be vented outside of the trunk or you will collect both oxygen and hydrogen gasses inside the enclosed space. Both gasses are very explosive. Hydrogen gas is corrosion.
TO add to my suggestion you can grab the whole battery tray/mount out of the same car. Easy and no guess work. Bolt it in. You have a secure/vented battery install. Some things just get over complicated.
I figured it would be outside the trunk, but how do you get it there? Do you drill a hole somewhere? Ahh... I didn't realize that was a case. I thought it was a type of battery.... I already have a battery
