I am trying to figure out the best way to install rivnuts for my sport mirrors.I thought that I could use a rivet gun but was told I need a special tool to install these. I went to lowes and they looked clueless and couldnt help me.I was about to go to harbor freight or home depot to see if they have the tool to Install these.
This is what I put together to install my rivnuts ... click on the pic for a bigger view ... That is a hex-head capscrew that you turn with the allen wrench, while holding the nut still. I used locking pliers. The capscrew is threaded into the rivnut and crushes it into place. Be sure to put some torque to it, or it will be possible for the rivnut to turn in the hole. If that happens, removing your mirror will involve taking the inner door panel off. You may want to look at how I relocated my mirrors. I feel like they look better in profile and you get a bit wider field of view out of them. Here is a link .... post # 136 http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=55560&page=14
I actually seen your write up and Im relocating them as well. I will hopefully have it done by this week I'll post pictures.
Craig was right I found it at harbor freight along with extra rivnuts in case I mess up the four that I bought. Hopefully it works good
I like to make a plate that has the regular nuts welded to it, and the plate itself, is then "pop riveted" to the inside of the door. That (for me) works the best, that way the rivnut wont loosen up and turn in the door when trying to remove the mirror later on. Just a thought.
It's pretty easy to pull the aluminum bodied rivnuts, but steels are another matter. I have the HF hand tool that works "OK" up to #10, but any steel nut over that requires more than a HF tool. McMaster sells a compound tool for ~ $300 that allegedly pulls up to the biggest (3/8-16) steel rivnut. I made a hydraulic tool that uses the McMaster mandrels (~$12 each) and pulls them all. However, I just blew up my cylinder trying to pull a 3/8" nut. It may be that it's been so long since I used it that I forgot the cylinder only has 1/4" stroke, after that's used up, you must remember to relax the cylinder, readjust the top nut, and pull the rest of the way...
IVe never had to use anything more than a bolt washer and nut. Even our riv nuts at work just come with a bolt with a nut and washer in the box for install. Just hold the bolt and tighten the nut with a wrench. Collapses the riv nut no problems.
Using the HB tool was a piece of cake and worked great! I relocated my mirrors a bit forward and I'm happy with the result. I got the rivnuts from west coast cougar classics for $4 but when I bought the tool at harbor freight yesterday it came with the same size riv-nuts and many more sizes. So I had plenty of extras in case I messed up the ones I bought. I noticed that the ones that I got from wccc were made out of steel and the ones that came in the kit were aluminum. My passenger side mirror was very loose and would not hold in place so I did the repair done in this video. When relocating the driver side mirror I used the hole in the middle as a mounting point. Original holes and you can see the new rivnuts installed. At first I thought I would have to weld up the big hole for the mirror knob on the drivers side and relocate it but I was able to reuse the same hole since the mirror stand covers it. All I had to was make a new hole on the gasket so the mirror cables could go trough. Heres the passenger side..You can see the second hole that I drilled.I didn't get a picture after I drilled the other hole so I edited on photobucket with the earth so you guys can see where I drilled the other hole. Im not sure if the previous owner used a washer and nut method or if he used the appropriate gun to install the rivnuts, but after grinding them down the holes left behind felt like little mountains.Not sure if the washer method did this.With the gun the rivnuts went on there flushly, tight and did not spin at all and it didn't bring the metal up like the old rivnuts.My teacher said that the metal might get a bump when I tighten down the screws since it would pull up the rivnut to tighten up the mirror. Passenger side gasket Drivers side here you can see the little pencil marks on the gasket. This is where I had to make a new hole to make the cables go trough. Unfortunately I didn't take any before pictures of the mirrors while driving but here are some with the relocation.I can see everything sooo much better. Heres the passenger side..I didn't have any silicon double sided tape to install the mirror permanently so just to get an idea I taped it on.The mirror finally stays in place and I can finally use it when reversing. Make parallel parking so much easier! I had a hard time getting this lens.I tried couple vendors online but they were all on backorder. I went to local glass shops but they said they couldn't do it since I needed non reflective glass and that they didn't have that type of glass and it is illegal for them to install it on automobiles. So I finally went to a local mustang vendor and they were able to order it trough Scott drake! around $15 Heres the lens http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/69sprtmirlenspass.html and heres the rivnuts http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/oumimokit1.html does anyone know if I can find a drivers side mirror lens?I cant seem to find anyone who sells the lens alone.
I have seen some replacement glass sold on eBay. This would be bonded to the existing glass or framework if the glass is broken up too badly. The mechanism in the driver mirror is pretty complicated and you are probably better off leaving it alone if you can.
Ok the mirror just has couple scratches so i wanted to get a new one so it would match with the other side